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Hill Men and Filers' 
HANDY GUIDE 



> 

BY M. COVEL. 



WITH GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR 

HAMMERING SAWS, 

THEIR CARE AND USAGE, 

— ALSO ~ 

M. COVEL'S SAW SHARPENER 

— AND — 

COMPLETE SAW BENCH. 

Plates and Figures representing all Implements 

to be spoken of, and how can be best 

managed will appear in their 

respective places. 



STEREOTYPE EDITION. 

g'j '■■j.j y 






Copyrighted, Sept. 29, 1881, 

— BY — 

M. COVEL. 



^r 



VqA 






CO INDEX. CO 



Page 

Introductory , 5 

Arbor, instructions in reference to...... 63 

Burnt saws . 93 

Carriage and Track » 5o 

Changing saws from right to left 114 

Cross-cut saws, their care 119 

Drag-saws 143 

Dressing of saws , . . . 10 

Examination for defects of saw 107 

Fitting point of teeth 33 

File-room with necessary tools 62 

Gauge of saws 21 

Gain from thin saws 40 

Gang-saws 121 

Hand-saws 143 



4 

Hammering saws 71 

Hammering saws that are too open in center 9 1 

Hammering gang-saws 136 

Hammering shingle-saws 117 

Inserted teeth saw 42 

Laying out saws for hammering 82 

Large band saw 144 

Leading saw by use of the hammer 116 

Mulay-saws 142 

Number of teeth for saw „ 2 5 

Patent ground or taper straight- gaugg saws 45 

Speed of saws 17 

Shape of teeth 27 

Straight-edge and its use . . . . a 74 

Straightening a dished saw 85 

Side-Jointer a 1 34 

Saw that is too stiff 97 

Saw with loose spot 99 

To hang gang-saws 122 

To make the best shaped teeth 1 30 

Twisted saw 95 

The complete saw bench 65 

Thickness of saws . .• 1 5 

Whose make are the best saws 48 

Conclusion 148 

Testimonials 1 55 



THE 

CARE and MANAGEMENT 

j op ( 

MILL SAWS. 

PREFACE. 

The following is compiled with a view of 
conveying to "Mill Men" such instructions 
as will be of intrinsic value to them, in the 
care and management of saws ; giving such 
points as will enable them to produce more 
lumber, and of a better quality from timber 
used. 

The following instructions are more espe- 



6 

daily directed for the grades of saws that will 
be prominently mentioned, as also some other 
subjects closely connected with the foregoing. 

The great desideratum of producing lum- 
ber at the lowest cost, is ot the utmost im- 
portance in this age, and any thing that will 
reach that end should be sought for and 
adopted by all that are engaged in the busi- 
ness. The greatest source of annoyance is 
the saws ; and anything that will benefit these 
should be adopted. 

I shall, as briefly as possible, introduce 
some things that are original with myself, as 
far as I know, as also many more that I have 
obtained from the best authorities in the 
country ; I have gathered in the last five (5) 
years, by going from one mill to another, and 
thus learning the experience of over a thou- 
sand of the best millwrights, filers and saw- 
yers in the United States and the Canadas ; 
and at the same time have had experience in 
upwards of one hundred of the best mills. 

And for the past twenty-five years I have 



7 
made the saw my constant study, in regard to 
the handling, and to get at the best possible 
results for its work. 

I have had experience with all kinds and 
makes of saws, which has given me more prac- 
tical knowledge than any other man in the 
country, both in hammering and dressing 
them. I -sought and acquired this knowledge 
for the purpose of furnishing mill men with 
such mechanical tools that would enable them 
to accomplish more and better work from their 
saws ; and with what I have gained and gath- 
ered by my own experience, I am enabled to 
furnish such machines and tools as will enable 
any one to make a favorable difference in their 
mills of from five to twenty-five per cent, in 
the cutting capacity, and from three to five 
per cent, in the stock which is going to saw- 
dust. 

I have carefully watched all the changes 
made in saws for the last twenty- five years, 
and with some, improvements have been made, 
yet many, no improvements; which, of the 



8 

latter, manufacturers are trying to force on un- 
skilled mill men, and seemingly with success, 
and when the worthless product is brought 
into use it will not meet the requirements. I 
do not claim any more credit than other stran- 
gers, until you are better acquainted; nor do I 
wish any one to take my word solely, but test 
what I have to offer, and I know satisfaction 
will be the result. 

I will furnish any number of references if 
desirable to establish the validity of my state- 
ments and that too within the reach of any 
mill man. 

The experience I have had cannot be acquired 
by what can be learned in a dozen mills. The 
more of arts and the larger the field, the more 
information there is to be gained. I do not 
claim to have learned all there is to be learned, 
but probably as much as can well be of utility 
at the present. With the world's stride, know- 
ledge should keep pace; one must become 
educated to things new, in order to be suc- 
cessful in their use. Many of the things I shall 



9 
offer are old, and many men thoroughly familiar 
with, yet there are a large number that are 
entirely ignorant of, and many points that have 
been abandoned by good men, owing to circum- 
stances which have wrought changes (but in 
reality of no importance to them) while others 
have seen good points and to advantage. I 
propose to discard such as has but little merit, 
although at times can be used- with success. 
I meet a great many skeptics in regard to some 
things I advocate, because they were old, and 
when used were condemned from other than the 
right causes. Now what one man can do with 
a saw another can do also, if the saw is kept in 
the same condition and under like circumstances. 



IO 

DRESSING OF SAWS. 



There are but few men that dress their saws 
properly, and if they have different saws will 
fail to dress them alike. It is often said they can- 
not file saws uniform because they do not run 
uniform, every saw will run the same if in the 
same condition, the reason they are not is 
simply because the filer does not understand 
how to test them, nor how to remedy the defect 
when found. 

No saw should be dressed any other way 
but right, that is both sides alike, and accurately 
round and in balance. These are points every 
one wishes to accomplish, and think they do, 
but I have never found any one yet, that does 
it so that it cannot be bettered. And what is 
right for one saw, applies with equal force to 
another. 

That in the shape of the teeth, each tooth 
should come in contact with the timber alike — 
or all at the same angle. This is a fact that is 
hard to be done, but with the right kind of a 
machine will accomplish it if properly managed. 
No one should go to extremes in any case, 
there is always a medium point and it has been 



1 1 



my endeavor to ascertain where that is— and 
point it out, more particularly with saws than 
any other implement. What I may offer will 
give the best of results if followed closely. A 
great many will impracticably follow them and 
because they do not accomplish what I claim they 
will, condemn all my implements and recom- 
mendations, and fall back in the old way. Now, 
if such have anything better and keep the same 
to themselves, it will never benefit others. 
There is no tool in use that there is more de- 
manded of it than the saw, and no implement 
more misused. The success of mills depend 
upon the saw, therefore it does not pay to em- 
ploy unskilled men to have the care of them, 
and the demand is such for skilled labor, that 
but few of that class are to be had. The frequent 
inquiry I have had for good filers and sawyers 
has led me to furnish such instructions to mill 
men and filers, that they can get along more 
successfully than they now do. 

I will endeavor to point out in detail, what 
will make the most successful runing saws, and 
will try to make it so clear, that any one may 
gain the benefits of my time and expense spent 
in this line to acquaint myself upon the subject. 



12 



It would take the best part of a life-time to 
get the experience necessary to become a No. i 
mechanic, and the only way to learn from one 
another is to be teachable on the ground of 
science and experience. The time has come, 
when it is essential for a filer to thoroughly 
understand the hammering of saws, as that 
constitutes a part of his business, and he cannot 
be counted a first class filer until he has that 
acquirement. There are a great many filers 
that could with the instructions this is designed 
to give, enable them to hammer their saws and 
have better success in runing them after becom- 
ing fully acquainted with instructions and follow 
them to the letter, as it is very nice work, and 
requiring the utmost care, therefore one cannot 
be too careful as it calls for close judgment and 
workmanship. 

There are some points I shall explain that are 
ahead of anything now in use, which will enable 
a new beginner to accomplish more work alone, 
than some of the old hands now can with a 
helper. Filers that can hammer their saws and 
do it right, are worth to employer three dollars 
per day more than one that cannot. 

The simple expense of hammering saws, is 



i3 

not where the difference comes in, it is in al- 
ways having the saw ready to do its work. If 
a filer understands the hammering, and has the 
right kind of tools to do it, and can examine the 
saw every time it comes off the arbor, and if it 
does not run right, remedy the evil at once, that 
would save all the trouble that is now expe- 
rienced with poor running saws. 

A delay of 1 5 minutes in a day would make 
the difference of 3 to 4 dollars in some mills. 
It is not necessary for a saw to stop to compute 
a loss, but may occur by favoring the saw when 
it will not stand up to the regular feed. Then 
it is best to take it off the arbor at once, and 
find where the trouble lays, but as a general 
thing they are favored through the tour, and 
then filed to lead them one way or the other, 
getting in one difficulty, in order to overcome 
another. In such cases the trouble at first is 
slight, but under such treatment the saw be- 
comes worse, and in a few days it is in such 
shape you cannot do anything ; and thus the 
lost time accruing, will be sufficient to pay the 
expense of hammering it several times, besides 
the poor lumber that has been made, and the 
result is in many instances of a broken saw, 



more than half of the saws broken is for the 
want of care, allowing them to get in such shape 
they will dodge on the side of the log, leaving 
it full enough to crowd the saw over the collars 
till it gives away, no saw will vary from a 
straight line without a cause, and any man that 
understands a saw, will examine and see where 
the defect is. Heretofore filers had no means 
convenient but their eye, to detect imperfections 
in the filing of them, but with my saw-sharpener, 
it is an easy matter to know if the saw is dressed 
right, and to keep it so. While heretofore they 
would change the saw by giving it lead one way 
or the other, and try again, and generally after 
trying several times they could do nothing with 
it, and then send it to some one to hammer 
that knows but little more than the filers. 
When a man understands testing the saw, and 
use of the hammer, five or ten minutes' work 
will put the saw to rights. 

I will give here full instructions how that may 
be done, accompanied with cuts showing the 
defects in saws, and the method of repairing ; 
and also give definite points that will obviate 
the much trouble in the past with saws. 



i"5 
THICKNESS OF SAWS. 



The chanees that have been made with 
saws in the last 2 5 years, the majority of mill 
men and filers know but little of, changes that 
have been made in the mean time have been 
many. When the saw was first being used, no 
one knew any thing about hammering them 
open, it was thought the stiffer the plate the 
better. Then they were all made straight gauge. 
Following came the taper ground saw, which 
has been in use 20 years, and is still in use by 
the majority of mills. Now I would like some 
one to bring forth proof, that could not suc- 
cessfully be gainsaid, that it is to the benefit 
of saws, to have the plate thicker in the center 
than elsewhere, and convince me of any benefit 
that could be thus derived. For it would be 
far easier for me to be convinced that I am 
wrong, than to make 3 / 4 of all the men using 
these, that they are wrong. But since the 
motion of saws have been increased, the extra 
steel which is in the center is a detriment to 
the saw, in room of a benefit — it is well known 



i6 

that a saw will not be successfully run when it 
is stiff in the center. I would by all means 
prefer it thinner there than otherwise. My 
reasons for it are : first, a straight saw will run 
with less set ; second, it requires less hammer- 
ing to put the saw in the right condition for 
good running. The less set, the less power it 
takes to drive it, the lighter it cuts, the less 
liable it is to buckle, and dodge; every thing 
that will lighten the running of saw, should be 
sought for by all interested in their use. 

For a long time there were but few changes 
made, that materially benefited the running of 
the saw, but within the last five years there 
has been much discovered that has nearly 
doubled its capacity. And other things when 
better understood, will add to this efficiency 
2 5 per cent, more than is now realized by the 
majority of mills. 

At the present time many mills are running 
thinner and straight gauge saws, some are 
making a success of straight 8 gauge 60 inch., 
some do well with 10 gauge 72 inch. I have 
faith and confidence that 5 years will not have 
passed, before 10 gauge saws will be run with 



i7 
as much success as is now being done with 8 
gauge. With what has come under my im- 
mediate observation in the hammering of saws, 
and the improved machinery in dressing them, 
will enable mill men to accomplish what they 
have heretofore failed to effect. 



SPEED OP SAWS. 



There should be a standard speed for saws, 
the speed necessary to accomplish the best work ' 
should be the one adopted. Although there j 
are matters of opinion to be settled which vary 
from 7 to 1 5 thousand circular feet per minute. 
Now there must be a point somewhere between 
these numbers, that the saws will do the best. 

Saws have been run with the above speed, 
and I have made this a special point, as it is 
very essential to know which is just right. , 

Saws can be run at any speed between the 
above number mentioned, but there is a medium 
point, one that the saw will do the best work. 



f8 

My experience has led me to adopt ten thousand 
circular feet per minute, as the medium speed 
for all saws, no matter what the size of the 
saw is, what is right for one, is right for another, 
or as near that as may be; 5oo or iooo feet 
variation is hardly perceptable, although I would 
much rather have just the right speed, but it will 
vary slightly as the saw wears smaller. 

Were there such a rule adopted, it would 
result in the end of a great saving to mill-men, 
and also enable saw-makers to furnish such as 
would give better satisfaction, as they could 
have a fixed rule to hammer them to. 

There will no doubt be some that cannot 
see it ; as they may have the idea the faster the 
motion, the larger will be the pile of lumber, 
but that does not always follow, for what you 
gain in speed, you lose in feed. I have never 
known it to fail. If you get below 10,000 feet 
per minute, then you cannot carry the feed. To 
those that cannot maintain the motion with the 
power they have, it would pay far better to 
increase the power, then you can make a suc- 
cess of saw milling. 

There is a limit to saws as to speed, and 



19 
the capacity of cutting lumber. It is natural for 
men to experiment, and is all right so to do, for 
that is the way best results are reached. But to 
those that do not wish to spend time and money 
in so doing and are willing to accept my 
experience, they will save the time to themselves 
I have spent to inform myself on the subject. 
I have no selfish motives in offering this book, 
further, than to give such information as will be 
of the greatest benefit. 

To hammer saws for a higher rate of speed, 
the saw will require to be open so much that 
it will dish either way, that should never be 
done; in such a case where the saw becomes 
warm in the center from the arbor that will 
expand the center and cause the saw to lop 
whichever way the strain is. Where the speed 
is 10,000 feet the saw can be hammered so it 
can vary 100 revolutions per minute, and then 
make good lumber. 

With so many opinions about the speed, it 
is hard to furnish saws which will be the best 
adapted for the work. There are a number of 
things that can be done that will enable most 
any one to run their saws to the right speed. 



20 



If you lack power, reduce the feed until the 
speed is maintained; many may think by that 
they cannot cut so much lumber, but the ma- 
jority of mills will cut more, for what you lose 
in feed you gain in speed. 

Some mills are lacking in power and mo- 
tion by not running the engine fast enough, if 
the engine were run faster as a rule that will 
accomplish the desired result. If that cannot 
be done, then there is another remedy which 
will give better results, that is reducing the 
number of teeth in the saw, or reduce the cut- 
ting surface of the teeth. In ordering a saw 
that will give the best results, go through your 
yard and measure the cuts on fifty boards that 
have been cut on different days, then average 
the cut, and whatever it amounts to, multiply 
by 1 6, that will give the right number of teeth, 
and dress the tooth like as cut No. 2 letter C. 



21 



SAW GAUGES. 



A few suggestions with other facts, I will 
now speak of relative to this subject. 

There should be a standard gauge for saws, 
and on a scale that one could determine their 
thickness to a nicety. The way gauges num- 
ber as will be seen, are from four to twenty, 
this makes it difficult to arrive at the real thick- 
ness of the saw plates, yet the following 
numbers will come very closely to it: A 30 
gauge saw is 5 / m of an inch in thickness, and 
a 6 gauge is 20 / 100 , and therefore the gain and 
loss in lumber must be in ratio corresponding 
with the gauge ; from 20 to 30 gauge, the dif- 
ference is y 200 of an inch to each gauge, one- 
half less than the lower numbers propor- 
tionately. 

Were there a regular gauge scale adopted, 
then one could tell what fractions of an inch 
in each gauge for the relative thickness. 

I will give as I advance a table of the actual 
thickness of saws, represented by number of 



22 

gauge, or within ]/ m parts of an inch as the 
actual average, commencing with No. 4, and 
thus to No. 20 inclusive, as the latter number 
is as thin as is in present use at this time ; and 
this table will be more accurate than the ma- 
jority of the saws now are, as well as more re- 
plete and comprehensive. 

TABLE SHOWING THICKNESS OF SAWS AS PER 

NUMBER OF GAUGE, IN HUNDREDTH 

PARTS OF AN INCH: 



No. of Gauge. 4 

1 


5 


6 


7 


8 


9 


10 


11 


12 


Thickness in 
numerical 1-100 - 
part of inch. 

J 


23 


22 


21 


20 


19 


18 


17 


16 


15 


i— ' 
© 
o 


i— * 
o 
o 


i— ». 
o 
o 


o 

o 


o 
© 


o 
o 


© 

o 


M 

O 

o 


i— >■ 
o 
o 



No. of Gauge. 13 


14 


15 


16 


17 


18 


19 


20 


Thickness in 
numerical 1-100 Y 


14 


13 


12 


11 


10 


9 


8 


7 


part of inch. ! 

J 


o 
o 


i— i 
o 
o 


1-^ 
o 
o 


O 

© 


© 

© 


h- 1 

© 
© 


© 
© 


i— ^ 
© 

© 



The benefit of the above table will be 
obvious, and enable any one to calculate the 



percentage saved or lost, by using the different 
gauged saws, and to decide which would be 
the most successful to carry. 

There is a medium point in feed as well as 
anything else, where the saw will make better 
lumber and more of it. If you overtax a saw, 
the sooner it will give out, at present the aver- 
age feed carried in mills, does not exceed 4 1 | 2 
inches, although some carry 6 and io ; and in 
other cases no more than three inches is carried, 
by close observation while I have been among 
the mills, I do not find it to exceed more 
than 4*^ inches. The average number of teeth 
in saw is not far from 64, that would allow each 
tooth to cut 8 | 100 of an inch each revolution. 

The average gauge of saws used is about 
No. 7, and width of cut is 3 gauges or 2 ^| 100 of an 
inch, or a little less than 2 5 per cent, of the 
stock, is converted into saw dust, and some as 
high as 30 per cent. Whoever uses 4 or 5 
gauge saws, loses about 33 per cent, of their 
stock. It is a general thing among small mills, 
where the power is light, that they use thick 
saws, the principal reason for this is, the lack 
of the right knowledge of the saw, and how 
best to care for them. These instructions are 



24 

designed more especially for this class of mill- 
men, and where there will be the greatest 
benefit gained, such feed should be carried that 
will enable the saw to be maintained in its speed, 
and at the same time, not to tax the saw beyond 
its strength. Much more feed can be carried if 
the teeth are in the right shape, and have the 
proper hook, or the back kept in shape to 
produce an easy cut. The shape and number 
of teeth regulate the feed. It is desirable to 
carry such feed as the saw will stand up to, and 
make good lumber, by adding more teeth more 
feed can be carried, 10 per cent, more lumber 
can be cut with the same power, and at the 
same time increase the quality of it five per 
cent, on an average. 

If you are lacking of power, it will be far 
better to reduce the feed or the cutting surface 
of the teeth. 



25 



NUMBER OF TEETH FOR SAWS. 



I ascertain that by the amount of feed I 
wish to carry. I allow a tooth to every 1 | 16 of 
an inch feed regardless the size. I have found 
the most successful running saws to be those 
that carry the above feed, although many saws 
are crowded far beyond that limit, but if there 
were more teeth added, so that each tooth will 
remove but \q of an inch of timber, the saw 
would do better work, and could be crowded to 
double that in light cuts through soft wood ; but 
in hard wood I would allow 20 teeth to re- 
move one inch of timber. 

There are but few saws that cut hard wood, 
that carry more than three inch feed, the average 
feed in hard wood is less than two inches. The 
above number of teeth can be used either 
sprung set or full swage ; when that is done, it 
adds double the number of corners to the saw, 
and such saws can be crowded harder and will 
make smoother work, but will require more 
force to remove the same amount of timber. 



26 

I have given the number of teeth for 6 and 
7 gauge saws. If you wish to run thinner 
saws, it would be preferable to add more teeth, 
as the thinner the saw, the lighter chip should 
be taken. I will below give the number of 
teeth to each gauge of saws, necessary to re- 
move five inches of timber to each revolution 
of the saw, to wit : 

6 gauge saw should have 8o teeth, 

7 " " " " &6 " 

8 " " " " 94 " 

9 " " " " no " 
io " " " " 126 " 

The above is for circular saws. It matters 
not about the size of the saw, so long as you 
wish to carry five inch feed to the revolution. 

The above number of teeth will carry five 
inch feed if the tooth is kept all right without 
swaging, see page 34, but if you wish to run 
full swage, the saw will cut some smoother and 
require more power to drive it. Whenever it 
takes more power to drive the saw, there is 
more strain upon it, and is more liable to buckle, 
and when there is an uneven strain or buckle, 
in the saw, it will not stand up as well as if it 
were straight and well balanced. 



27 

The number of teeth has much to do with 
the running of the saw. There is such a thing 
as having too many teeth, as also not enough, 
and to get at the right number, it requires 
study and practice to arrive at the best results, 
both in feed and thin saws, as to governing the 
number of teeth a saw should have. 



♦ *♦►♦ ■ 



THE SHAPE OF TEETH. 



It is of the utmost importance to the suc- 
cessful running of the saw, the shape of the 
teeth, which, as a rule but little attention is paid 
to by majority of filers, every man has his own 
ideas of putting a saw in order, and consequent- 
ly all cannot be right. It is well known among 
first class mechanics, that when a cutting tool is 
brought in contact with the surface to be re- 
removed at a certain angle, the chip is removed 
with less power, and this tool must be ground 
so that both sides are together at the right 



28 

angle to produce the desired results. This rule 
applies with equal force to wood as well as iron. 

There is a fixed law that cannot well be 
evaded, and the nearer one keeps to it, the 
better and more favorable success he will have 
in any branch of labor. 

Carpenter's plane, bits, chisels, &c., cut lighter 
when held at the right angle to the work. A 
saw is a duplicate to all of these, and governed 
by the same laws, although are imperfectly un- 
derstood by the majority of mechanics as well as 
mill men. And the first thing that should be 
sought by mechanics is to hold and grind the 
cutting tool in that way that it will cut with the 
least power. 

The saw is the most sensitive tool in use, 
and one that should be handled by the best 
skilled mechanics, and be kept as near perfect 
as possible. Ninety per cent, of the sawyers 
and filers are men that have been brought in 
contact with the saw usage, without ever having 
the first principle of the same explained to them. 
Through actual necessity, they have acquired 
such knowledge as was obtainable by their own 
experience, which has generally been very 
limited, and if any one discovers points where 



29 

there are benefits gained, they are like most of 
patentees, conclude that their discoveries they 
will not reveal to another. 

The following cut illustrates six different saws, 
with as many different kinds of teeth, all laid out 
by a rule, which will make the lightest running 
saw, and one that will bring each tooth in con- 
tact with the timber all at the same angle. It 
matters not what the size of the saw is, or the 
number of teeth in the saw. I have tried this 
rule thoroughly, and find it to be the only rule 
that will apply to all sizes of saws. 

Some manufacturers send out their saws 
with the tooth very near right, but with no in- 
structions as to what shape should be maintained, 
in order to keep the warrantee of the saw good. 
This rule applies to, as you see illustrated on 
next page, Cut No. i. 

The lines H and R come together at angle 
of 30 degrees, and the tooth comes in contact 
with the timber at an angle of 40 degrees. 
These two angles produce the best cutting 
point and will make the lightest running saw. 
To lay out this shape tooth, divide the distance 
between the center and point of the tooth, and 
and then strike a circle as is here shown. This 



3° 




CUT NO. 1. 



is known as the quarter line, H is the hook 
line, that comes in contact with the timber at 
an angle of 40 degrees. R or radious is found 



3i 

by setting the dividers to strike the circle same 
size of the saw. Place one point of divider on 
point of tooth, and the other upon circle or 
quarter line forward of the center, and strike 
line as shown by R and H, that come together 
at an angle of 30 degrees, producing a thin 
cutting edge like a chisel or plane, but not 
blunt like cold chisel edge, that the saw dust 
will not be cut, but pounded out. Whenever 
you find by examination of the saw dust, that one 
end of the grain is broken, you can make up your 
mind that the teeth are not in the right shape, 
then if you carry too heavy feed, the timber 
will be broken and not cut. When the chip is 
more than y% of an inch in length it will be 
broken off. That is the reason the saw should 
have more teeth, and kept in the best possible 
shape, and by the above suggestions being 
maintained, the work will be perfected ; any 
variation from this will produce undesirable 
results. 

I fully understand the difficulty filers would 
have in keeping the tooth in the right shape 
with the appliances they have in the file 
room at the present time. The depth of 
the teeth with the proper amount of throat 



room for saw-dust, is very essential ; you can 
have too deep a tooth and too much throat as 
well as not enough, and one is as bad as the 
other. 

Most every filer knows that their saw does 
not do as well when first gummed as it does 
after the tooth gets down to the best depth. 
If there is any one point where the saw will 
do better work, that is the point or depth of 
tooth to run, extreme measures always spoil 
the object sought for. My experience has 
been that half the distance from point to point 
makes the best shape tooth with the proper 
throat, unless the teeth are over three inches 
apart, if so r y 2 inches deep, then strike a line 
from H to R, that will give a tooth that will 
not choke or clog under any reasonable 
amount of feed. When the tooth is too deep, 
the tooth will spring and tremble more and 
cause the saw to dodge more readily and stand 
less feed. If there is any one point wherein 
the saw runs better, it is best to run it in 
that way. 

But it is an impossibility for any man to 
maintain one shape tooth, yet that is what they 
all try to do with present appliances. 



33 
After twenty years' careful study and prac- 
tice I have been successful in perfecting a ma- 
chine that maintains the shape of the tooth, 
and keeps the same to the desired depth with 
more accuracy than is possible to do with any 
other machine in use, and enables filers to 
overcome such difficulties as they have hereto- 
fore been unable to do. 



IN PITTING THE POINT OP 
THE TOOTH. 



There are various opinions with regard to 
the most economical way to accomplish this, 
some claiming one way, some another. I will 
here endeavor to give the best points that are 
gained. 

The annexed cut shows the different ways 
in filing them; A is a full swaged *•:■ 
dressed square and of proper shape and show- 
ing the cut in each tooth, by the cross lines at 
the bottom extending clear across, and this 




CUT NO. 2. 

saw has double the outside corners than is 
shown by the others, and cuts across J /$ more 
timber than B, but does not cut so far ahead 
on the outside of the cut ; with full swedging, 
if you have plenty of power, such a tooth is 
all right. 

Now most men claim that such saws run 
lighter, but that is a mistake, it takes power to 
drive a tooth through the timber, the wider the 
surface, the more power it takes, and the greater 
is the strain on the saw. Many claim that if a 
saw is spread full, it cannot dodge nor the set 
get out, the latter is true, but the former is not, 
for the saw is more liable to dodge when crow- 



35 

ded, and the more power it takes, the greater is 
the strain and more liable to buckle, and when- 
ever it buckles, it will not run straight. No saw 
will vary from a straight line without it first be- 
comes sprung or buckled, from too much pres- 
sure upon it or getting strained and bent. Bad 
filing will produce a buckle or lead as some term 
it. In this style of dressing, both outside 
corners should be kept full and sharp, with the 
outside of the point dressed at an angle of 1 5 
degrees, such a tooth will run 6 hours without 
losing enough of the corner to become round 
on the outside. The objection to this tooth, is, 
i st ; It will take about 2 5 per cent, more power 
to drive it than a sprung set tooth ; 2d : It will 
cost more to keep such saws in order if the 
swaging is done by hand. Disston & Sons 
say: "By getting over this extreme spread, 
we could afford to make our saws 20 per cent, 
harder in temper, which would be of great 
benefit to them, and at all times run with much 
less set." 

If saws were 20 per cent, harder, there 
would be 5o percent, less saw hammering done. 
Then when the saw was rightly hammered, it 
would stay so much longer. 



36 

The advantages and disadvantages of the 
sprung set tooth as shown by letter B: At the 
present time many are using the swage tooth, 
and have discarded the sprung set for lack of 
knowledge how to file them properly. The ad- 
vantage to be gained by sprung set: they will 
run 2 5 per cent, lighter when fitted right, as in 
reference to B, and cross lines shown at 
the bottom, you will see that the points of 
the teeth do not cut so much timber by one- 
third, and that leaves the tooth to cut double 
of the distance ahead on one side, and the 
same as swage tooth on the other. The chip 
will remove easier by cutting half way across 
the cut. By examining the cut you will see 
there is less cutting surface to this tooth than 
that of A, and a quarter more than C. The 
tooth is slightly bevel on the under side, and 
flat on top, the side corner should be sprung 
close to the point as shown in the cut, sec- 
ond, saws will last twice as long by spring 
setting, and cost less in files and emery 
wheels to keep them in order. 

Men have discarded sprung set teeth for 
two reasons ; first, for lack of teeth. If there 
was on an average one-fourth more teeth 



37 
added to sprung set saws than there now is 
used, there would be better running saws. 

By reducing the thickness of the plate two 
or three gauges, that would make a saving of 
10 per cent, in power and relieving that much 
strain upon the saw, at the same time saves 
three per cent, of the stock. 

The disadvantage of the sprung set teeth 
claimed by some, is that the teeth become 
thinner on the point ; that is no detriment to 
it as long as the tooth cuts to the center of the 
cut as shown by C. 

I do not find that difficulty with them, 
when the tooth is set right. The sets in gen- 
eral use it is difficult to spring the tooth close to 
the point, but with one constructed properly, 
and the teeth once set, it is not half as much 
work to keep them set as it is to upset them. 
If you are lacking power, it would be best to 
use a thinner saw, and fit the teeth like C. This 
tooth will take nearly 40 per cent, less power 
if fitted this shape, and make 1 5 per cent, better 
lumber on an average. By examining the cut 
you will see that each tooth has cut only half 
the timber that A does across the cut, but i/ 3 less 
than B. At the same time each tooth cuts the 



38 

same distance into the timber, and each tooth 
has 2 5 per cent, wider shoulder to strike 
against, which will prevent the tooth dodging 
or sliding off the shoulder (as is liable to do, 
when half swaging and sprung set is used as 
shown by D.) If this tooth is sprung set, with 
the inside corners filed off to the center of the 
cut, it will leave a narrower point to be driven 
through the timber with a heavier body of steel 
back of it for a support, not like A the widest 
on the point with y^ less steel back to support 
the cutting point. I have used this shape teeth 
and seen others use them with the best results; 
most every one dress this shape tooth as Diss- 
ton directs. 

I do not follow his instructions fully. I do 
not use the swage but rather use the set, and 
one that will spring the teeth as shown in the 
cut. I have endeavored to show the outside 
corners as near perfect as possible to represent 
on paper, and what is to be gained by swage or 
upset is to keep the outside corner sharp, every 
one side-dresses the teeth after they have 
swaged or upset the tooth, that leaves the cor- 
ners sharp and should also be done with sprung 
set teeth, and by keeping the tooth sprung 



39 
close to the point, it will not wear off enough to 
cause the tooth to be full below the edge, as it 
will get to be when it is not side-dressed. The 
object of having the tooth beveled on the bottom, 
is that it may present a full sharp corner on the 
outside, and give a cutting edge that will wear 
longer than a square bottom, and such an edge 
will work better in cross grained timber than 
one that is square, the bevel should be slight 
but what most men would call square. 

When the saw is filed from both sides that 
is sufficient for the bevel, but it is almost an im- 
posibility to make both sides alike with a file, 
and if they are not alike the saw will not run 
as well. 

The only way that the saw can be dressed 
successfully is by a machine that will work 
accurate, heretofore there has been a lack of 
skill and not the proper kind of machines to do 
the work. 

With my saw-sharpener I can dress a bevel 
or square tooth with that accuracy that has never 
been obtained by hand, or with any other- 
machine. It will make any shape tooth desired, 
and keep the saw always in the best possible 
shape. 



4o 



THIN SAWS AND WHAT IS 
THEREBY GAINED. 



This is a subject of interest to all parties 
engaged in the manufacture of lumber. 

Timber is becoming too scarce and ex- 
pensive to waste 2 5 per cent, of it in saw dust. 
And what can be saved from this loss is clear 
gain, which is fully understood by nearly all, 
and many have thus tried to run thin saws but 
have failed for the lack of knowing how to run 
them and how they should be made. There 
are three principal causes why they are not 
running 3 or 4 gauge thinner saws than those 
they are at present. 

Thin saws can be run when handled as they 
should be. The first cause wherein most have 
failed is not having the proper number of teeth. 

The next point is the lack of skill to fit the 
teeth. It is not all in the filing but much de- 
pends in the hammering of the saw; six or seven 
years ago 8 gauge saws were as scarce as 10 
gauge now, and did not have any better success 
with them then than is obtained with the 10 
now. 



4i 

I have seen 10 gauge 72 inch saws run in 
hard wood and carry as much feed as was 
carried 10 years ago in soft timber by 8 gauge 
and with good results. Men are improving the 
saw all the time, and in less than five years 
there will be as many 10 gauge saws in use as 
there are 8 at the present time. 

It is a more particular job to file a thin saw 
than a thick one, but with the use of my saw- 
sharpener all such difficulty is obviated. With 
the number of teeth in table and in the right 
shape, with point of tooth fitted up like C and 
hammered open right, there will be no trouble 
in running them successfully and do as well as 
the 8 gauge saw can do. It requires skill and 
knowledge in the care of them, both in hammer- 
ing and filing. 

With my sharpener and the instructions for 
hammering that I will give, will enable mill- 
men to have better success with their saws 
than they now realize or have had in the past. 



4-2 



INSERTED TEETH. 



It is claimed by some that inserted tooth 
saws will do better than solid. 

My experience has not demonstrated that 
fact. I have never found them to make as 
good or as much lumber ; they are more ex- 
pensive than the solid. It costs more for teeth 
inserted than for the same amount of steel in 
the solid saw, although some men get along 
better with them than with the solid, as they 
do not have so much work to do, and there 
are less teeth to be filed and kept in order, 
and have no gumming to do, thus making 
them a favorite among filers. The saw does 
not get out of balance so readily as a solid 
one will under the care of same men, some 
will work the spaces uneven by filing, and in 
the solid ones the spaces become so uneven 
that one side of the saw has from 5 to 10 
per cent, more labor to perform than the other. 
Such saws will never run right and will require 
hammering often. In making this statement 
it is not derogatory to solid teeth but against 



43 

those that file them, whereas with the use of 
my machine the teeth are put in the right con- 
dition and can always be kept so. The less 
pieces to a saw the better, and if the filers 
understand their business, they can make the 
solid saw do more work and do it better than 
the inserted tooth saw, so much so that the 
gain will pay for a new saw every six months. 
There is nothing gained by maintaining the 
size of the saw as claimed for inserted teeth. 

I will here refer to. what Messrs. Emerson, 
Smith & Co. of Beaver Falls, Pa., say, in their 
hand-book on saws, page 7J, in regard to solid 
teeth, viz : "We do not pretend that any inser- 
ted tooth saw for a single dash, is the superior 
of the solid tooth saw. Because when the teeth 
of the solid tooth saw are full length with good 
throat-room for the dust, and the tooth in perfect 
. order with power to drive it, no inserted tooth 
saw can be made that will cut more lumber in 
as short a time." If solid saws will do better 
by having the teeth in proper shape, then it 
will pay to keep them so, and you will have 
the most successful running saw. 

My experience has been the same as that of 
Emerson, Smith & Co. I know that a solid 



44 
saw will do better work when kept in order 
than an inserted tooth saw. 

Filers are prone to favor inserted tooth saws, 
on account of the less number of teeth to file, 
and by favoring the saw regardless of how 
much is lost in this way by the mill-men, and so 
long as they do not find the difference or that 
the mill cuts one or two thousand feet per day 
less, that much is not missed, or they may 
make more lumber with a new inserted tooth, 
and thus is led to believe he has made great 
improvement by the use of the inserted tooth 
saw. It is well that at the present time mill- 
men are becoming awake to the necessity and 
benefit of using the solid saw. 

The points I claim is to use a saw that will 
do the best work. If the solid saw has the 
right number of teeth and in the right shape, 
no inserted tooth saw ever made can make the 
quality or quantity of lumber that the solid 
saw will when kept in perfect order. 



4 5 

PATENT GROUND OR TAPER SAWS 
WITH STRAIGHT GAUGE. 



Many claim a great benefit in the use of 
this saw, when that idea was instituted, mill- 
men began to increase the motion or speed of 
the saw ; that caused it to lop over, then to 
overcome that, the manufacturers conceived the 
idea of the taper saw in order to make it stiffer, 
and soon the mill-men wished to run the saw 
faster. This necessitated another change, and 
the manufacturers began hammering the saw 
open in the center, this they found to be an 
improvement, and continued grinding the saw 
tapering and hammering it until the saw be- 
came open in the center. Could any one give 
me a reasonable excuse for the extra steel in 
the center, when the first thing they do before 
it will run, is to hammer all the stiffness out of 
them ? Just the reverse of what the steel is 
left for ; such saws require more set to clear 
the center and prevent heating. The wider the 
set of the saw the more strain on the rim, and 
the wider the cut the less feed can be carried. 



4 6 

The wider the cut the more liable the saw is to 
buckle. As soon as you give the saw room to 
spring, the less feed can be carried. 

The saw should have a support on its sides „ 
but you must have clearance enough to prevent 
the saw from heating. All the above difficul- 
ties will occur by having the center too thick. 
Some are getting back to straight saws and find 
them to do better. 

I would rather have a saw two gauges 
thinner in the center than thicker. Such a 
saw will run very nice with fine teeth. If the 
rim is the heaviest it will straighten up and run 
steady more like the rim of a fly-wheel. These 
saws will not feel the uneven spots caused by 
the hammer as much as a thick center. Then 
you can carry lighter set on such saws and 
give more of a support to them, and prevent 
their buckling, when the saw is straight the 
center will not heat so much nor break, where, 
under the same circumstances, a thicker one 
would ; the thicker the plate the greater the 
damage. If you bend a thick saw it is liable 
to break in remedial of so thick a body, 
whereas if the plate was 3 / m of an inch thin- 
ner it would not break. 



47 

The thick edge with less set, have less 
timber to remove and more steel to do it 
in proportion. Such saws will not require so 
much hammering to make them stand up as the 
heft of the rim is a great help to it. The 
foregoing may be new to a great many, but 
such a saw has been successfully run in some 
places and is no theory of mine, but an actual 
experiment. I have seen such a saw, and that 
has been in use for the last four years. 

Some will no doubt ask, why has not this 
saw been brought into use before this ? I will 
say there is a patent on it, and the case has 
been in Court about three years and that is the 
reason there has been nothing more done. It 
takes some time to get men to adopt any thing 
that is new, especially when the reverse of 
things in general use, these saws will yield 
more readily under the same treatment, and 
when men become educated in using the thin 
saw, there will be more of them used year after 
year. If mill-men will adopt straight gauge 
saws, they will have less trouble with them than 
with others. That would be the saw I should 
use under all circumstances and not thicker than 
8 gauge ; the points in favor of such a saw are, 



4 8 

they require less hammering, they will run with 
less set, are less liable to get out of order, and 
they will yield and resume their place, whereas 
a thick one will not, but the surface on the 
plate will stretch more and will not contract 
again, and in such case the hammer will have 
to be used. 



• <♦> * 



WHOSE MAKE ARE THE BEST SAWS, 



I am often asked, who makes the best saws ? 
I do not have any preference, they all make 
good ones and sometimes quite fail in making 
a perfect saw, and whoever gets a saw that does 
not work right, it is generally found to be the 
fault of the man that has the care of it. He 
does not know the remedy when the saw does 
not work right, and therefore good work is not 
the result, then the blame is laid upon the 
maker. It is a patent fact, saws do not work all 
alike, and there are so few men that become 
master of the saw and consequently hard to be 
found. 

There is no saw but what can be made to 



49 
run good, yet there are many that will require 
much labor to get them in shape to do good 
work, and to make such saws work well, it re- 
quires a man well posted and familiar with them, 
and to get them in shape to give satisfaction. I 
do not claim to make every saw work equally 
as well, but with the following instructions if 
carried out, will enable most of the filers to be- 
come masters of the saw, so much so that there 
will not be one saw in ten condemned. 

Many times saws get buckled by improper 
dress. Yet not enough to make the work very 
bad, but so much so that the saw cannot be 
trusted, and will not stand very heavy feed, but 
when filed nicely will make fair lumber on one 
or two inch less feed than other saws that are 
in the mill. But the swagers say the saw is 
worthless and cannot be made to run, and claim 
the maker is in the fault. Many times the saw 
will run all right half day or a week or month, 
but never if the saw is not right, as it will show 
its condition the first cut, but if it runs one day 
well and another day it may fail, the cause is 
from something that has happened to it, and 
the swager might think there was nothing un- 
usual happened to the saw. 



5o 

I find instances of the kind occurring with 
all brands of saws, and if your saw does not 
work satisfactorily, after examining the descrip- 
tion here given you may be able to fit the saw 
so that you can make a success with it. 



CARRIAGE AND TRACK. 



I do not intend to say much about the mill 
or its machinery, but there are some things so 
closely connected with the running of the saw 
and that have more or less control over the 
same, I deem it essential to mention the most 
particular parts, such as the carriage and track. 
It is understood by most all that the carriage 
should be firm, and the bearings of the axels 
well fitted, so that there will be no vibration to 
the carriage, as otherwise it would make the 
saw to run bad and more liable to heat. 

The track should be straight and of the right 
width, both of the wheels flanged and run on flat 
rails, as they are doing now in some mills, but 



5i 

the old fashioned track in use in most of the 
mills, is, when straight and level, found to work 
very well, if the journals are nicely fitted and 
the collars kept set up closely to prevent 
the carriage from swaging or crowding up to 
the saw. Some times the track will appear 
level, but when you get a large log on the car- 
riage and run over the track, it will sag or 
spring, and when the saw is in the cut, it has 
the tendancy to crowd the saw in the center 
and cause the mandrel and saw to heat. The 
heating of the saw will cause it to dish as it be- 
comes warm. If the track is crooked side-ways, 
it will throw the log to and from the saw, thus 
making uneven lumber. The track may be all 
right and still the carriage will sway to and from 
the saw. This may be caused by the wheels 
not being true. 

One cannot be too particular in fitting the 
wheels, they should be shrunk on the axel-trees 
and turned up to a perfect gauge. Many will 
turn up the wheel and then key it on axel, 
such wheels are not on true, and will cause the 
carriage to move to and from the saw. I have 
seen wheels of carriages that would vary or 
run out j£ of an inch every revolution. 



52 

There are but few nicely fitted carriages, 
the truer and stiffer the carriages the better the 
lumber will be. If you have a poor carriage 
and track, the best saw that ever was would be 
spoiled in a short time. 

Many times filers and sawyers will keep 
fooling with a saw, leading it first one way then 
another, trying to make the saw run straight ; 
when if they understood how to test it, it would 
not take 10 minutes in so doing, and to ascer- 
tain whether the trouble was in the saw or the 
carriage or track. 

It is very important the filer should be able 
to do that much if he could not repair it, after 
this fact has been learned the-trouble is half over. 

It is an easy matter to examine the saw 
with the right kind of tools to do it with ; the 
track should be solid, level and straight, and the 
carriage firm and run free. 



53 
THE ARBOR. 



The arbor is another appendage to the mill 
and united with the saw, so much that whatever 
effects one will effect the other. 

Many mill-men are troubled with hot arbors 
which cause a great deal of delay and loss to the 
mill by heating the saw. This is from several 
causes, sometimes the arbor heats from the saw, 
crowding too heavy against the collars and some 
times the arbor is cut from the cap, being set 
too close ; more times the boxes are not filled 
with the right kind of metal. 

A great many arbors are of iron and thus it 
is a very hard matter to make an iron arbor to 
run cool. Not one iron arbor is round and 
smooth, nor one iron bar in a hundred that can 
be made so, as all iron has hard and soft 
streaks, some more and some less. Iron bars 
cannot be turned true, and if they were finished 
true at first they would not remain so long, for 
where the soft streaks are that will give way 
before the hard portion does, and cause the 
bearings to become out of round and the arbor 



5 4 

to run unsteadily, thus causing the saw to run 
bad. No arbor should be made of iron, steel 
is much the best. If your arbor is of iron 
get steel boxes and fit them closely, and tem- 
per them to a good hard temper, the greater 
the contrast between the two metals the less 
friction ; some have steel arbors and they can- 
not help them from heating. By changing the 
metal in the bearing that may make a differ- 
ence; by examining the arbor and getting at the 
hardness of the metal you could make up your 
mind whether it were softer or harder metal in 
the boxes that was needed. Many times the 
arbor is out of line which causes it to heat. 
Sometimes the back end of the arbor is forced 
out of level by the strain of the belt. 
This can be tested by placing a weight up- 
on the tightener until it sags the same as 
when running; then apply the level to the 
arbor and see if it is level when under 
the heaviest strain. All arbors should be 
leveled with the tightener and with as much 
strain as subjected to at any time, that will 
show whether the floor timbers are solid. If 
they spring they should be stiffened. Some 
times the front end of the arbor will lift when 



55 

in a heavy cut, try this by getting a pry upon 
the track and under the end of the arbor, try 
it to see if you throw the arbor out of level. 
You can judge something the amount of strain 
to apply upon the lever, that will depend upon 
the distance from the saw to the center of the 
pully. It is generally two-thirds the length of 
the arbor from saw to center of the pully, that 
will leave one- third the power that it takes to 
drive the saw to lift the front end of the arbor, 
and the strain down on the back end to pull it 
down. Many men will level up the saw arbor 
when it is laying light in its bearings, not even 
the heft of the belt upon it and think the 
arboi is level, but when the saw is in the 
cut and laboring heavily, the arbor may be out 
of place y^ of an inch and this will cause the 
saw to run out. . 

When the floor springs there is no saw that 
will run straight, when the saw is running light, 
the arbor is nearly level, and when it strikes 
into the cut the front end will begin to lift, and 
then the saw will begin to run out, and the more 
of a cut the more it will get out of level, so 
much so the Sawyer thinks the saw is wrong, 
then he shifts the gear, and when the saw is in 



56 

a light cut and the guide holding the saw in it, 
will run in on such cuts, and if you ease off in 
the feed the saw will straighten up and get back 
into the log. And thus the trouble is laid to the 
saw, when in reality the trouble is in the foun- 
dation of the Mill. 

I have found this difficulty to exist in many 
of the mills, and the filers dressing the saw to 
evercome the spring of the floor. If such men 
understood the saw they could tell by examining 
whether the trouble was to be imputed to the 
saw or some other part of the mill, I have 
given such points as are but seldom understood 
by Millrlghts in regard to the leveling of the 
arbor, "which should be adhered to strictly," in 
order to produce good lumber. The slightest 
difference in turning up the collars of the arbor, 
or in the finish of the saw near the hole, will 
cause a very perceptible difference in the 
hanging and of its true running. 

In such cases many use packing between the 
collar and saw to true it up ; the best way is to 
examine the saw first and if found to be true, 
then remove the lug pins and try the collars, 
should they be found full in spots they should 
be faced off, and to do that great care should be 



57 
taken in order to accomplish a nice Job, this can 
be done without removing the arbor from the 
bearings. The caps should be tightened so 
that there would be no chance for the arbor to lift 
up, the next thing is to place a smooth hard point 
against the center of the arbor and press against 
it to prevent the arbor from vibrating, or moving 
endways by the running off the belt : this should 
be well oiled to prevent it wearing, this point can 
be placed against either end, whichever may be 
the most convenient. It is less in the way on 
the back end. 

The next thing is to take some heavy piece 
of iron, one that has a sharp corner and will 
lay close to the face of the collar, to form a rest 
for the tool while trimming, the closer the rest 
the easier it is to hold the scraper while turning 
off the face. The back or solid collar should be 
be hollowed out to within 5/g of an inch of the 
outside, this edge can be scraped off where it 
is too full. Take an old file and grind the end 
nearly square and sharp on the edge, this will 
remove the full points. Many claim that the 
outside collar that comes in contact with the 
saw should be straight on its side ; such a collar 
is more beneficial when the taper ground saw 



58 

is used. The saw-makers .recommend such 
collars, and to use packing to make the saws 
stand up straight. I prefer saws that will hang 
right in the collars without any packing. It 
does not take any longer to hang a saw right 
with the hammer, than it does with paper to 
true it up, when it is done with the hammer it 
it is right, but when it is trued up with paper it 
produces an unnatural strain upon the saw, and 
causes the saw to buckle with less strain upon 
it. Always do a thing the right way and it 
will be useful the longer. 

I prefer both collars turned the same way 
with a face upon them 5/§ of an inch wide, they 
will hold a saw better than the straight full 
faced collar. After you have scraped off the 
back collar until it is perfectly true, the collar 
can be fastened up in the bearings better than 
it can be done in a lathe, and is far better to do 
it while the arbor is in its place. Many times 
collars are faced off in the lathe, and in so do- 
ing the collars are not perfect. Then, many 
times the work is done by persons that are not 
competent. It is a very nice piece of work to 
fit the collars as they should be, after you have 
taken all the end play out, the lug pins must 



5 9 

be removed, set the rest up the right heigth, 
or so that the cutting edge of the tool will 
come on a line with the center of the arbor, 
the tool used should have a sharp cutting edge, 
yet not too sharp, the best thing to use is a 
flat file, grind it smooth on one side, and square 
across the end or very nearly so, until you 
have a straight square edge ; hold firmly upon 
the rest, and not allow it to tremble, and touch 
the face of the collar lightly until all the full 
spots have been removed off. 

While doing this the arbor should be run 
very slow, and the face of the collar be per- 
fectly flat or straight on the face 5/ s of an inch 
from the outside, the inside of the collar should 
be chambered out so that it will not rest upon 
the saw, but not too much. 1 | 10 of an inch will 
be sufficient, if too deep the lugpins will not 
stand so well, and all that is removed weakens 
the collar and will get out of place quicker. 
When the back collar is fitted up true, the face 
or front collar should be tested with the straight 
edge, and if any imperfections are discernable 
they must be scraped off. Try the saw with a 
straight edge and if found imperfect, it should be 
straightened. See instructions for straightening. 



6o 

After the saw is straight, place it upon the 
arbor and tighten up the collars lightly before 
the lug-pins are put in, do not set the nut too 
tight, leave it loose enough to admit of turning 
the saw between the collars, the outside collar 
should not turn; turn the saw one revolution 
and if any imperfection in the saw or collars it 
will show it. If it is in the saw, the collars will 
be marked all the way around, and the saw will 
show where it is worn, the lump or bulge on the 
same can be taken out with the hammer, but if 
the mark should be on .the saw all the way 
around, then the full spot is in the collars, and 
can be scraped with the tool you have used, 
until you have a perfect fit and cannot perceive 
in the wear any difference either in saw or arbor, 
and they show the same surface, then replace 
the pins but do not drive them with a hammer, 
they should be so nicely fitted that they can be 
removed with the fingers, but at the same 
t'me there should be no shake or bur upon the 
pin or by side of the hole. 

When there is a bur upon the pin or collar 
it causes the saw to run bad, and any uneaven 
press upon the saw will cause it to buckle, after 
the pins are in place, hang the saw and screw 



6i 

up the nut firmly, then turn the saw slowly 
holding a piece of chalk, on the side to see if it 
runs true, if it should not, the chalk will show 
the full spots and can be straightened. See 
page 98 Should the saw run perfectly true it is 
all right. Untrue collars will cause the saw to 
rattle and waver in the cut. 

The instructions I have given will enable 
any Mechanic to fit the saw and collars more 
perfect than ^ of those now in use. Do not 
attempt to do this work unless you fully under- 
stand the instruction here given, and that you are 
Mechanic enough to do the work as it should 
be. You had better spend a whole day in doing 
the work right, than to allow it to go half done. 

After you get the saw and carriage to run 
true, then it will be best to try the range of the 
arbor, the best way is to slack the guides, letting 
the saw remain free, then move the carriage up 
until the head block is on a line with the front 
edge of the saw, then take a file the shank 
dressed to a point and lay it upon the head- 
block, and place the point of the shank lightly 
against the saw, then shove the carriage back 
until the point is opposite with the back edge, 
the point should clear the saw y M of an inch, 



62 

that is as much range as is necessary or good 
for a saw. 

After trying the saw one way, turn the same 
y^ of the way around and see if there are any 
imperfections in the saw, if so it will show them. 

It would be better to try the saw from the 
four quarters, then there would not be any 
mistake and will leave the arbor in perfect 
shape. 



FILE ROOM, AND IMPLEMENTS NE- 
CESSARY TO MAKE THE BEST 
RUNNING SAWS. 



The file room as a general thing is the most 
neglected part of the mill, and many have no 
room at all, and hang the saw upon anything 
where they can have a chance to use the file, 
as some have a temporary bench or post, no 
one can file a saw true with such appliances, 
then when the saw is brought into use wonder 
why it does not run better. Three-fourths of 
the filers will say that no saw can be made to 
stand 8 or 10 inches of feed. If the saw is 
filed right and is straight and true it can do 
double the work that it could if it were not so. 



63 



If mill-men can make a gain of 10 per 
cent, above what they are now doing, it will be 
sufficient to pay all expenses. 

In filing saws it is necessary to have a good 
light room to work in, with plenty of room to 
get around, and should be furnisned'with the 
best machinery and the most improved tools to 
work with. 

I find, where mills are furnished with such 
they can make the best lumber in quality, and 
the most in quantity. I do not ask men how much 
lumber they cut, I can tell that by what their 
yards will show, and whether there are any de- 
fects in the saw, and if so, wherein the man that 
has the care of them is in the fault. Many times 
the saw makes bad lumber for want of suitable 
tools to work with, when virtually it is not so 
much the fault of the filer. Every file room 
should have the best emery wheel rig and a 
good solid bench, with a full out-fit of hammers 
and straight edges with anvil to use when 
needed. I have for a long time seen the im- 
perative need of these tools, but they would be 
of no need to those who did not know their 
use or how to use them. And with instruc- 
tions given here, any man that cannot learn to 



6 4 

use them ought not to have any business in 
the mills, they take the place of good men at 
an expense of #5 to $10 per day, and are the 
very poorest acquisition to the file room. 

I have endeavored to get up the most im- 
proved tools for file rooms that have ever been 
used. My automatic saw-sharpener is the best 
and most complete machine that has ever 
been placed in a mill, and if handled as is de- 
signed they' should be, they will do the great- 
est variety of work, and the most perfect of any 
machine now in use. It fits the saw ready to 
be placed upon the arbor without the file, and 
will have a better edge than can be put on with 
a file ; the teeth will be all of one shape, and 
the saw perfectly round, and the teeth are al- 
ways gummed ready for use and in perfect 
balance. The above I claim to be points ahead 
of any other method used in the past by any 
one. 

I have a bench for swaging, setting or fil- 
ing the saw upon, it is differently construct- 
ed from anything that has heretofore been 
used, and the design is to combine such tools 
as are needed to keep the saw in perfect 
shape or as near as they can be with 



65 

THE MOST COMPLETE SAW BENCH 

EVER USED, SHOWN BY THE 

FOLLOWING CUTS. 




CUT NO. 3. 



66 

Cut No. 3 is a front view of this bench with the 
saw arbor S A turned up as it stands when the 
saw is horizontal and shows the collars S C for 
clamping the saw, these collars are independent 
from the arbor and so arranged that the saw 
can be clamped between them and firmly 
screwed up, will admit of removing the saw and 
collars from mandrel, and the saw can be turned 
around without slacking them. This enables 
one to test the saw and hammer it on either side 
with the collars on. The arbor S. A. is hinged 
to a slide which is adjustable, W W W is three 
ways for the purpose of adjusting the several 
attachments to, U H is an upset slide so con- 
structed the upset can be held at any angle to 
suit the pitch of the tooth, U H 2 is the upset- 
holder provided with a round boring with a 
slot on each side, the shank of the upset is 
furnished with a lug, this can be changed half 
way around and hold the upset in such a way 
that either side will come in contact with the 
point of the tooth alike, this will prevent the 
changing of point of tooth, and hold the upset 
alike on every tooth as shown by saw tooth here 
represented. V is a vice for clamping the saw 
while s wedging which is adjustable to the size 



6 7 




CUT NO. 4. 



6S 

of any saw, this slides upon one of the ways. 
S J is a side jointer for the purpose of gauging 
the teeth to a defined width which is not done 
on an average, this is shown in the position as 
used on the saw. R R are rests for holding 
the saw level while hammering. Cut No 4 
is a top view showing the arbor S A turned 
down with the saw hung upon it. V is a top 
view of the vice, showing the manner of clam- 
ping the saw, in same view is a top view of side 
jointer and gauge S J, F H are the file-holders 
showing the position of the files F F, D D are 
set crews to keep the files the desired distance 
apart to regulate the set. G G represent set 
screws -to guide or hold the saw steady while 
turning, by slacking the thumb nut this will 
allow the file holders to be turned back, out of 
the way, and when using are applied to the saw 
as shown, by revolving the saw slowly between 
the files will dress the sides of the teeth more 
accurate than any other gauge or jointer. . U 
H is a top view of upset stand. U H 2 is the 
holder showing the slots for the purpose of 
guiding the upset, and when it is brought in 
contact with the teeth it is held plumb over the 
tooth, and perfectly square with it. A is the anvil, 



6 9 

B B is bed for arbor to slide upon. C is a 
crank that turns screw S, for the purpose of 
moving slide carrying the arbor for to bring the 
saw in the right position upon anvil, Cut No. 5 
is a side view, this shows the saw in both posi- 
tions, perpendicular and horizontal, it also shows 
the upset holder in line with the saw, and also 
resting upon anvil A and rests R R. This is 
more clearly shown in this way represented, and 
the benefits of the bench by the instructions 
given. 

I do not think it will be very troublesome 
for a new beginner to operate successfully upon. 

The anvil sets in a socket on the bed-plate 
and can be removed when not in use to prevent 
the face from getting marred or defaced, as the 
smoother and nicer it is kept the better the saw 
will look and be when done. 

In regard to the frame or wood-work for 
this bench by examining the above cut it will 
be seen, any Carpenter can frame it together, 
and as it will be about as cheap to make the 
frame in the mill, I will furnish the iron work, 
ready to be placed upon it, and this will allow 
the making of frame suitable size for the saws 
used; the anvil rests upon a block 10x14; the 



70 




CUT NO. 5, 
rest of the frame is 4x4, and makes a good 
strong bench, and that will enable any one to 
accomplish more work on this than any other 



7i 

bench in use, than he can with some one to help 
him on the ordinary anvil and bench. 



HAMMERING OF SAWS, 



In hammering, I shall introduce a new mode 
of operating than that of the usual way. Nearly 
all hammer-work from the center in straight 
line to the rim, the result of such a process is 
attended with more labor, as the slightest 
difference in the blows upon the saw will pro- 
duce an open and tight line running from center 
to the edge, the effect upon the saw wili be a 
rattling or trembling motion which causes the 
saw to run unsteady. 

If there is an open line running from center 
to edge, this line runs across the line of motion 
of the saw and the right way to cause the saw 
to buckle, as all buckles run from center to the 
edge. If the saw is 'hammered in circular 
lines around the plate, there will not be any 
ridges or buckles formed in the saw, but if there 
should be any one line expanded more tftan 



72 

another, it will not effect the running of the saw 
as it would if it run from center to rim. 

The principal feature of this bench will be 
readily understood by observing that the saw 
is held by its center, and held level by the 
adjustable rest R, causing the saw to rest level 
upon the anvil; the saw can be revolved around 
and the blows applied more uniform in rate, and 
the position of the body remains unchanged, 
far more so, than when working from center to 
rim, the body changes position with every blow 
and this will cause the blows to vary both in 
weight and distance apart. 

The most difficult for new beginners, to ap- 
ply the blows at equal distances apart with uni- 
form weight ; the operator should take such a 
position that the blows would all be delivered 
in a line without necessitating a change in po- 
sition ; it is almost an impossibility to change 
position of body without its changing more or 
less the force of the blow, therefore the more 
uniform they are the better the saw will run, 
and the less work to have the saw right. A 
new beginner, by keeping these facts in view 
will enable him to be more successful. Some 
times it is necessary to deliver a heavier blow 



73 
on some parts than upon others, as the case 
may demand, the higher the spot or defect, the 
heavier should be the blow. Each blow deliv- 
ered should be marked off at a uniform dis- 
tance apart. In laying out the saw by the dia- 
gram as shown, it can be done more accurate 
than hammering the saw without doing so, 
where each is laid out it can be done on both 
sides so that the blows will be delivered exactly 
opposite each other. In opening the saw 
where the blows are delivered promiscuously 
or without laying them out, they are never uni- 
formly opposite each other and therefore the 
work imperfect, and will require more time to 
level up or straighten the saw. After you have 
it opened sufficient, it is always necessary to 
test the plate and ascertain if the tension is 
uniform and equal ; some times after the saw 
has been opened, so as to appear right and the 
hard spots are taken out, the saw will be found 
too open ; one should work with great care and 
precision to have it right. When that is ad- 
hered to and followed out the saw will be 
perfect in all respects. 

The more imperfect a saw runs the more 
power it takes to drive it, and the greater the 



loss in stock, wear and tear of machinery, and 
less can be. accomplished. 

I have endeavored to set forth the impor- 
tance of having the saw right, and will now 
give such instructions as will enable unskilled 
men to keep their saws in far better shape. 
It ought not to be expected that a new be- 
ginner in hammering saws cause them to do as 
well as they are likely to do after they may 
have had some experience and practice, but 
will be of benefit from the first. 

The first step in order to make a success 
is to have a thorough knowledge of the tools 
and how to use them ; and will commence 
with 

THE STRAIGHT-EDGE AND 
ITS USE. 

They should be of steel, and four of them of 
different lengths, as follows : No. i should be 
4 feet in length with a V shaped edge and per- 
fectly straight ; most every one uses them with 
a square edge., and hold it at an angle on 
the saw to admit of light under it, to ascer- 
tain where the defect may be ; the straight- 
edge should have such an edge that it will 



75 




CUT NO. 6. 

show the defect in the saw when held at 
an angle with the side of the saw, it will 
not detect the imperfection so readily as 
when at right angle, Plate No. 6 shows the 
long straight-edge applied to the saw, and how 
the saws will appear under different aspects 
when applied, as in figure i. This plate re- 
presents the saw resting upon one edge and held 



7 6 

by hand raised clear from the anvil, the heft of 
the saw will cause it to spring as is shown, the 
straight-edge should be applied to it as re- 
presented across the middle and at right angle 
to the position in which it rests, this is the way 
to examine and ascertain the condition in which 
it is in. 

The straight-edge should reach not less than 
3/ the distance across the saw in order to more 
fully show the conditon. 

Many claim it not essential in having a 
straight-edge to reach over one-half the distance 
across the saw, but no one can detect the defects 
so readily with a short one as can be done with 
one reaching clear across, as when applied it will 
show the slightest defect if any, as shown by figure 
1 1 . This shows the straight-edge extending across 
the saw and divided into 4 equal parts from the 
center, each space is numbered for reference 
hereafter. 

The curved line on the underside shows the 
saw as it will appear when opened right for a 
speed of 10,000 Periphery feet per minute when 
applied as represented below. 

The saw should not drop away from the 
straight-edge between lines 1 and 1, this re- 



77 
presents one-fourth the size of the saw, this part 
of the saw should be left as stiff as it can be made, 
and there should be no hammering between the 
two lines mentioned. 

Between i and 3 the saw should be ham- 
mered open as much as it will bear and not 
dish either way, when the saw is hung perpen- 
dicular upon the arbor it should appear straight 
every way, but when resting upon the opposite 
sides, the application of the straight-edge should 
be had. If the saw is of medium hardness and 
but its own weight to sag it down, the center 
should not drop to exceed y% of an inch from 
the center of the straight-edge between lines 
1 and 1 or across the center of the saw, this 
much should appear straight and not on a true 
curve as shown by figure IV of the same cut. 

The saw when hammered open in the right 
place, that is between 1 and 3, which is the first 
part of the saw where the hammering should be 
done, to produce the best running saws, for the 
following reasons. First, that portion of the 
saw should be so open that the expansion of the 
rim will not make it so long as to cause the saw 
to buckle or shake as it will when too tight, the 
saw from 2 to 3 should be opened sufficient to 



78 

admit of the expansion of the rim while running 
without affecting - the center. Second, when the 
center is tight or stiff, it acts the same as a large 
collar to support the saw without an addition in 
thickness of the saw, th^ center does not expand 
while running unless it should heat by the arbor 
becoming heated, or heating from any cause it 
will expand, and if it has been hammered down 
to the collar as many do, the heating will expand 
the saw so much in the center that it will cause 
it to dish and throw it out of the log, necessiating 
the moving of the guides to hold it in the cut. 
In running a saw that is too open in the center 
between the two lines i and i, it will make it 
necessary to shift the guide often, first one way 
then another, as many Sawyers have had such 
experience and did not know the true cause of 
the trouble, the more open the saw the more 
thick and thin lumber will be made, the above 
defects exist more or less in one-half the saws 
in use, caused by too much hammering inside 
of one -fourth the size of the saw. It would be 
far better for new beginners to go slow at first, 
and not get them quite up to the point I recom- 
mend, nor until you have tried them, it will be 
better to have them a little tight than too loose, 



79 

if the saw is too tight it will make snaky lumber 
until it gets warm, then it will run good until it 
cools off and then it will be best to repeat the 
hammering until it runs right, should you do too 
much to it it would be necessary to stiffen it up, 
by opening between 3 and the edge. One 
should work with care, some saws will drop 
away more than others from the straight edge, 
and in reg-ard to this point will differ fully as 
much again with some saws and both run all 
right. The cause of this is in the temper of the 
saw, a hard, firm saw will not expand so much 
with the same speed as a soft tempered one 
will and therefore will not drop so far by its own 
weight. 

To judge more closely when the saw is open 
sufficient, allow it to stand upon its edge, balance 
it nicely between the fingers, then give it a 
sudden shake, if the vibration extends out be- 
yond the 3rd line and is true, and vibration long, 
this will indicate it has about the right opening, 
but if it is too tight it will become stationary at 
once. If too open there will be a snap or jerk 
to the vibration, and will come to a rest as 
quick as though not open enough. These things 
should be closely observed. 



8o 

Figure III represents a Saw that is too stiff 
or open in the center, and this is the way the 
saw will appear when tested as shown at the 
bottom of this cut, such a saw will make very 
snaky or winding lumber and will not run 
until warmed in the center. Saws get in this 
condition by becoming heated on the rim, some- 
times by holding the saw too heavy with the 
guide, and more times from heating the edge 
while gumming. Whenever steel is het it 
expands and does not fully return to its former 
position, and this is the principal cause of saws 
getting out of order and to require hammering 
so often. 

A great many mill-men do not understand 
this, they send the saw to the shop to be ham- 
mered, and when returned _will not run well for 
a few days and is considered as bad as ever, 
then the fault is thrown upon the hammerer, 
when, if the truth was known it would rest 
on the filer or sawyer, from some cause the 
saw had been heated up and gotten out of 
shape again. No. IV represents the saw that 
is too open in the center, and what is called a 
dished saw, and should be opened on the rim. 
No. V in cut No. 6 represents a twisted saw 



8i 

frequently found, but not so often as the other, 
all of these defects are found by examining with 
a long straight-edge ; this is what I use it for, 
and to ascertain the imperfections far better 
than with a short one, as many use those of but 
two feet in length, and some even shorter, and 
claim it to be all that is necessary. It may do 
for those who have had much experience but 
no one can do as well with the short as with 
the long one in getting the saw just right. I 
have hammered a great many saws with noth- 
ing but a steel square to use ; a short one is 
handy in taking out the lumps and in leveling 
up the saw. I shall refer many times in what 
may follow regarding the instructions above 
given. 

When testing to ascertain if the saw has 
the right opening the long straight-edge should 
be used, when straightening saws a short one 
is better, and to be used in detecting the 
lumps or loose spots, this is done when the 
saw is in a perpendicular or horizontal posi- 
tion. It is necessary to try the saw both ways, 
which will be more fully explained in this as 
occasion may require., 



82 




CUT NO, 7. 

LAYING- OUT SAWS FOR 
HAMMERING. 



Plate No 7 represents a saw spaced off and 
the circular lines laid out and numbered to cor- 
respond with the numbers on the straight- 



83 
edges ; the saw has a division of four equal 
parts from the center as is shown by circular 
lines ; these lines should be drawn upon every 
saw to be hammered, and if the instructions 
are followed you may at times have occasion 
to refer to the lines and numbers. 

This plate also represents a saw that has 
been sprung or dished close to the collars, in 
order to remedy this state of the saw, the first 
thing necessary will be to lay out where 
the blows from the hammer should be first 
given to bring the saw back to its proper 
place. The lines running across the center of 
the saw should be evenly spaced. In laying 
out the saw use hard soap or tallow to mark 
the saw, it being preferable to chalk and leav- 
ing a plainer mark. Divide the saw into 8 
equal parts, as shown in this plate by the 
straight lines, this is easily done by count- 
ing the teeth, the diameter should be divided 
in 8 equal parts, as shown by the circular 
lines, which can be done with a cord, 
or if you use my bench, I have a straight- 
edge fitted for this business, you can hold the 
soap or tallow against this and turn the saw, 
producing a true circle. After you have these 



8 4 

lines laid out, then mark where the blows are 
to be struck represented by the dots in the cut, 
lay them out at equal distance apart, upon one 
line the full side of the saw, always using the 
hammer upon the high or full sides, when 
straightening, strike a circle from each dot 
around the center as more clearly shown on 
cut II, this is far easier than to space off each 
line, strike the blow upon saw just where these 
lines cross, this should be done whenever you 
wish to open the saw, and should be laid out 
upon both sides with each line opposite each 
other, so that you can deliver the blows opposite 
to each other and the nearer perfect this is done, 
the less labor it will be to level up the saw. 
After you have used the hammer upon both 
sides and the saw has not been left open enough, 
divide the spaces equal and lay out the saw as 
before, but between the lines worked on before. 
It may not take as many blows upon each line 
as has been given to produce the desired result. 
You can lay out just half of the number as be- 
fore, always doing the same amount of work 
upon each side when opening the saw, unless 
the .saw should be dished, then it would be 
better to straighten by using the hammer upon 



85 

the full side until the saw is straight, after you 
have accomplished that, then use the long 
straight edge to test the strain as shown in Cut 
No. 6 to see if it is open sufficient. 

The instructions I shall give can be followed 
with more accuracy upon my bench, and with 
the different appliances attached, will enable a 
new beginner to accomplish more with less 
labor than can be done on any anvil or rig that 
is now in use, and would be far better for any 
one that wishes to take the advantages this 
conveys and to have the best tools to work with. 



STRAIGHTENING A DISKED SAW. 



Plate No. 8 represents a saw that is dished 
or sprung close to the collars as will appear 
when tested with the straight-edge, and shown 
bv No. Ill in plate 6 on one side, and like 
No. IV on the other side. 

This saw may be open sufficient when it is 
straightened up, to do that without opening or 
expanding the center, it would be necessary to 



86 




CUT NO. 8. 

proceed in the following manner. Lay out the 
saw as shown in this plate upon the full side, 
in straightening do not use the plain face of 
anvil as it should be padded ; this pad can be 
made of wide belting free from rivets or uneaven 
spots, leather or rubber; old leather is preferable, 
cut it in shape of the top of the anvil with a 
narrow strip left on each side to turn down, 



87 

make a band to fit loosely around the anvil, 
and turn the narrow strips of the pad down the 
sides, and drop the band down over them, this 
will keep the pad in place while in use and can 
be removed when desired. This should always 
be used when straightening or truing up the saw, 
and where tight spots appear, so the saw re- 
quires expanding or opening, it must be done 
on the bare anvil with a hammer. If you have 
not an anvil a hard wood block set upon its end 
will serve the purpose of the padded anvil to 
straighten the saw, but not to expand or open 
it, and you must have suitable straight- edges and 
hammer. Some recommend a hammer weighing 
3 or 4 pounds, but I would prefer one but 2 
pounds for a new beginner, as he could handle 
it better and with more success at first than one 
heavier. The face of the hammer should be 
slightly oval or full, not too much so, neither too 
flat, such ones as i send with the bench will be 
of the right shape and as handy for new be- 
ginners as any now in use. The inside circle 
represents y^ the diameter of the saw, and should 
not be expanded or opened inside with the ham- 
mer, as saws generally get opened enough by 
being sprung or dished by heating. No saw 



88 

can be dished without the center being expanded 
so much that it will be too open; all saws are 
liable to the above difficulty, that is the reason 
why the center should not be opened inside of 
one-fourth the size of the saw, inside of the circle 
is where the whole difficulty lays in saws getting 
sprung, and this part should be as stiff as they 
can be made, this will help support the saw in 
its labor, and is a point new to many saw- 
makers as well as Mill- Men. As I have before 
stated, in hammering the usual way, many ham- 
mer from center out, commencing just outside 
of the collar; this brings the blows closer together 
near the center, therefore weakening the saw 
just at the place where it should be the strongest. 
I used to do the same thing until experience 
taught me better. The center should be as tight 
as possible; when cold, be gradually opened out 
to line No. 2, from there to No. 3 it should grad- 
ually diminish again, until near one-eighth of the 
size of the saw and the rim made tight, this is a 
part of the saw affected by the momentum. 

By opening the saw from line No. 1 to No. 3, 
it will allow the rim to expand while running, 
and not become looser than from 3 to 1 as this 
part never expands by the running and seldom 



8 9 
by heating, this is the reason why it requires to 
be opened with the hammer. 

I have endeavored to point out these things 
so they can be clearly understood and what can 
be accomplished if followed out. 

In straightening a saw the straight-edge 
should be applied very often to detect any 
change that may have been made. The straight- 
edge to be used in straightening the saw, should 
be from 18 to 20 inches in length, this is the 
most convenient for that purpose. When using 
it the saw should be hung up plumb, the usual 
way is to stand it upon its edge and holding it 
plumb, this requires a helper, and that is 
generally one that knows nothing about ham- 
mering saws, and will allow the saw to incline 
slightly, this will effect the condition so much 
that it will not show the defects. When a saw 
is standing upon the floor it is not in its natural 
position, and will not appear as it does when 
hung from the center, that is the way in which 
it labors and should be held in the collars as 
when hung upon the arbor, some saws will 
appear all right, so much so that one cannot 
detect any defect in it while standing on its edge, 
but when hung upon the arbor and the collars 



oo 

screwed up, it will be very much out of shape. 
These things are seldom noticed or any 
attention paid to them. 

These small defects are more apt to in- 
crease in size than diminish. As near perfec- 
tion as possible is the object sought for in the 
care of saws, and one should not get discour- 
aged when reviewing this subject and its in- 
structions, and think that they are not compe- 
tent to undertake such a particular piece of 
work. 

The improved bench and attachments I 
have gotten up are to assist the filer in becom- 
ing proficient in his sphere of business. 

I have heretofore mentioned relative of the 
dished saw or one too open, the result of such 
is it will heat in the center, and thus causing 
it to become more dished by the expansion, 
and such saw must be held in the lo9f with the 
guide, and will as heretofore remarked make 
thick and thin boards, some saws not so much 
so as others, and requires a high rate of speed 
to straighten them up so as to do passable 
work, then when the motion slackens the saw 
will lop out or in, just as the guide holds it. 



9i 

TO HAMMER SAW THAT IS TOO 
OPEN IN CENTER. 



Cut No. 8 represents such a saw shown by 
No. IV in plate No. 6, such saws should be 
laid out as represented in plate No. 8, these 
lines are the same as in No. 7, the dotted 
lines extend from No. 2 circle to the edge of 
the saw, and some from No. 3. Should the 
saw require but little opening one must be 
governed by the condition. It is not always 
necessary to lay out quite so many lines :he 
first time around, if you hammer on 16 lines 
that may be sufficient, or 8 may do, others 
may require 32 and some 64, and it is best 
that one use his own judgment in regard to 
this matter acording to the condition of the 
saw. One should be very particular in laying 
out the lines and blows to be given, so as to 
have then exactly opposite, and if you work 
around the saw by commencing at the outside 
edge, turning the saw backwards from its usual 
course and always marking the line started 
upon, as there should not be more than one 
blow in a place, if so, it will leave a full place 



92 

or ridge upon the saw, and this will produce 
what some call a rattling saw, such saws are 
not true, it would be best to go around the 
saw about five times, and strike upon the dotted 
line, then turn the saw over and do the same 
on that side, after this is done, try it with a long 
straight-edge to see what changes have been 
made, and repeat this operation until the saw 
is in the right condition, as will appear in 
plate 6 No. 2. It would be well enough to try 
the saw in the cut when you get it somewhere 
near right, by doing this you will gain a better v 
idea of the results of work done, and each time 
the saw comes off the arbor give it a few more 
blows with the hammer. 

This mode of operation will enable, a new 
beginner to closely watch the results of his 
past labor, and get better ideas than to be gover- 
ned fully by the instructions, and will give him 
practice as well as theory. 



93 




CUT NO. 9. 



A BtmOT SAW. 



Plate No. 9 illustrates a burnt saw with 
different size spots, and showing the different 
methods to pursue with them, and generally 
occur upon the saw as represented, frequently 
they will be all of the same size. 



94 

No saw will become burnt when it is all 
right, saws generally get too tight before they 
get burnt, such results are caused by too great 
force and from the heavy pressure upon it 
produces a buckle. Thes spots become hot and 
expand, the steel will not contract again to its 
original place, the small spots can be taken out 
by using the hammer as shown by the dots 
with the pad upon the anvil. The number of 
blows I have represented to be given may not 
be enough, or may take more or less, this is to 
give an idea how to go to work at first, but 
the next size spots will require a different pro- 
cedure, this is expanded too much to admit of 
all the steel being forced back to its original 
place, the edge of the saw must be expanded 
until the surface will be level or true, here are 
dots and crosses represented on these lines, 
the dots are upon the full side and more of them 
than the crosses, they represent where the saw 
is to be hammered upon the opposite side, but 
the blows should be as uniform apart as is pos- 
sible. It may require a number of them more 
or less until the saw becomes straight, when that 
is done test it with the long straight-edge as 
before, and finish up by opening the saw to the 



9? 

proper strain, after you have got the spots out 
or nearly so, you can examine it with the long 
straight-edge, and will often appear like No. V, 
in cut 6, this represents 



A TWISTED SAW. 



Plate No. 10 shows the saw in that con- 
dition and also how to lay it out for hammering. 

The dots show where to hit it on the face, 
the crosses represent the same number of blows 
to be struck on the opposite side. In straight- 
ening this saw the blows are delivered upon the 
full side, and with the pad upon the anvil. 
Saws in this condition may have originated 
from two causes; first, from being cramped and 
sprung; second, it will become this way if it is 
too open on the edge and in the center, and 
too tight between circle one and three, this will 
cause it to appear winding, when testing such 
saws the full spots will become slack, by spring- 
ing the saw they will change from one side to 
the other in some cases. While testing a saw 



9 6 



Hi 



Alffip 




CUT NO. 10. 

it is very important to notice how such saws 
appear, and whether the cause is by the saw 
being too open on the edge, or by its being 
bent or sprung. A saw that is bent or sprung 
should be treated as has been heretofore stated 
and illustrated in Plate 10. If too long on the 
edge remove pad from anvil and hammer the 
saw as shown here, not clear around, but half 
way as shown by the dots, then turn the saw 



97 

over and hammer as shown by the crosses, if 
this does not relieve or straighten it, hammer 
on the opposite side, this will expand the saw 
where it is too tight, also make the saw full 
stiff after getting it as straight and true as 
possible. 



SAW THAT IS TOO STIFF 

Is shown by Plate No. n, with the saw 
laid out preparatory for hammering. This re- 
presents both sides of saw when it is straight 
and true, but is too tight. 

This saw would make snaky lumber or run 
out and in, and is divided into 10 equal parts 
and i o blows for each line; in laying out this 
saw k will be less labor to strike 10 circular 
lines around it as shown in cut and hit the saw 
on the cross lines, should this not open it suffi- 
cient, divide each space by striking a line from 
2 to 3 across the circular lines already made, 
and go around the saw again on both sides, if 
this does not open it enough, wipe* off all the 
old marks and commence anew, lay out as be- 
fore only between the former lines and just 



9 8 




CUT NO. 11. 

where it is not loose enough, lay it off and ham- 
mer open again or repeat this until it is opened 
enough. It would be better to test the saw 
with the short straight-edge and long one to 
see if it be true and level, as the case may de- 
mand. If this is done along as you open it, 
you will find it to come out near right, should 
you go on and open the saw until it appears 



99 
right, and then go to work to level it up or to 
take the lumps out, it might be too open when 
done. The best course is to open up the saw 
as represented, and then to straighten or 
level up. 

It is necessary to use the long straight-edge 
and then the short one, first one then the other, 
first in one condition, second in the other, which 
will be more fully explained in subsequent in- 
structions. 

After you have the saw very nearly perfect 
and you come to give it a thorough test, it may 
appear as represented. 



-♦— *■ 



A LOOSE SPOT. 



The annexed plate No. 1 2 represents a saw 
that is nearly perfect ; it has one loose spot. 

There is not one saw in fifty as perfect as 
this one, and not one man in a hundred but 
what would make the saw worse than it is, if 
they were to undertake the removal of the de- 
fect. This spot is detected by the surface 
dropping away from the straight-edge in testing 



IOO 




CUT NO. 12. 

it, by allowing the saw to rest upon its edge 
and holding one side in the hand as is shown by 
plate No. 6. This spot will commence dropping 
away nearly out to the dots as represented. 
Many times a saw will show such a spot on the 
side, but when turned over and the straight- 
edge applied it will appear full on that spot or 
lump and require two or three blows upon the 



101 

full side with the hammer, but should the saw 
have the same appearance upon both sides and 
it drops away, the indication is that the steel 
has become expanded too much. The above 
plate shows how to lay out the saw ready for 
hammering. 

This represents both sides and requires 
much labor to remove the defects. It is sel- 
dom you find so perfect a saw as this, and 
requires much care in laying out and ham- 
mering. If you better this saw it will run 
better than the average, and if you get them 
as near perfect as this, it will be safe enough 
to run them ; as a general thing you will find 
three such spots in saws, if so, lay out as this 
represents. In marking a loose spot, mark it 
with cross-lines running as far as it drops 
away from the straight-edge and as many 
spots as you may find. In examining saws 
to find tight and loose spots, allow the saw 
to rest upon its center and spring the saw up 
and down, in doing so, the tight places will 
rise up to the straight-edge, and when it is 
changed to the edge first by bearing down, 
then raise it up. When raising up the edge 
the tight spots will drop away first, and when 



102 

changing to bearing down, the places will 
touch the straight-edge first, and drop first ; 
and this spot will appear upon both sides alike. 
This is the course to pursue in testing to as- 
certain if the saw is leveled up properly. In 
finishing up, this is the process to go through 
with in order to get the saw right. These 
spots will not show when it is standing up- 
on its edge, nor when hanging plumb upon 
the arbor, lumps can be found when hung up 
plumb, but when testing the saw to find 
the tight and loose spots, it should lay hori- 
zontal, resting in such a way the plate can 
be worked up and down as described, and will 
appear like the saw in plate No. 13. This 
shows a saw with tight spots as they will ap- 
pear when testing, such spots should be 
watched closely and marked as represented, 
to enable one to use the hammer to the best 
advantage. Such spots require to be ham- 
mered upon both sides in order to expand them. 
They are caused by the other parts of the saw 
being expanded more, and will make bad run- 
ning saws. Very few men understand how to 
find these blemishes or what to do in the way of 
remedy. The cause of these defects are generally 



io3 




CUT NO. 13. 

from uneven temper ; they are harder than the 
rest and therefore will not yield under the 
hammer with the same treatment, and will be ne- 
cessary to hammer the saw more in the places 
I have represented by the dotted lines upon 
both sides ; this will expand the hard steel and 
as soon as open enough they will appear true. 
It is with far less labor to take out hard or 
stiff spots, than soft or loose ones ; the loose 



104 

spots are caused by uneven temper, the softer 
the steel the less hammering required to open 
the saw. A great many do not understand 
why a saw will show its tight and loose 
spots when they have been so careful 
about the hammering of the saw, and 
also so particular in striking each blow 
just alike and at regular distances apart. 
The reason is, some portion of the 
saw is harder and will not yield in 
proportion to the same heft blow on softer 
portions of the saw, and are comparatively true 
as to tight and loose spots, but want to be 
opened slightly, some may think that as the 
saw is comparatively true when they begin, that 
if they are very careful in the uniformity of the 
work, it will not need testing after the ham- 
mering. There is not one in a dozen but what 
should be tested or leveled and straightened up 
the last thing done. In hammering one should 
use great judgment and care not to do too 
much at a time in any one thing. If you are 
opening the saw, go around it a few times, then 
try the short straight-edge, both while it is 
hanging up and laying down, by so doing it 
will show where the hammer should be used. 



io: 



One should not at first open the saw as 
much as I recommend, if you do, by the time it 
is straightened and all the tight and loose spots 
are out, it will then be too open, and have to 
be opened on the rim to stiffen it, this will cause 
more spots to again appear, and by the time 
these are out again the saw may be too stiff, 
but if you keep the spots out as you go along, 
then when it is open enough it will with less 
labor work all right. 

The spots should be watched for often as 
they are liable to appear, and mark every full 
spot as that will be the place to use the ham- 
mer, the loose spots have already been ham- 
mered too much. 

It is generally the fault of new beginners 
that they use the hammer too much, and 
neglect the use of the straight-edge, that will 
not injure the saw-when the hammer will ! 
The more you use the straight-edge and care- 
fully mark all the imperfections detected, you 
can then use the hammer carefully ; the nearer 
you wish to come in perfecting the saw the 
greater should be the care taken to accomplish 
the undertaking, some times as you approach 
completion, three or four blows of the hammer 



io6 

will change the saw either way, as you get the 
saw in shape, each blow should be lighter as 
you go over it. I have endeavored to show 
these things in as clear a light as possible, so 
that those who have had but little experience 
with the saw, may have the benefit of the years 
I have had to pass through in acquiring the 
light I have upon the subject. There is much 
I have gained by actual experience, which is 
the best way, provided the right principles are 
the objects to start with ; of course, one must 
use his own judgment. 

As I have before remarked, a soft saw will 
yield more perceptibly under the same weight 
blows from hammer, and will expand more in 
running, will show more opening when tested 
with the long straight-edge yet will make a 
good running saw. 

Hard saws are the reverse of the above, 
they will not yield so readily under the hammer, 
nor will they expand as much when running, 
such should not drop away from the long 
straight-edge when being tested. 



io7 






CUT NO. 14. 

EXAMINATION OF SAW 
FOR DEFECTS. 



Plate No. 14 represents a saw with appli- 
cation of the short straight- edge when hanging 
upon arbor or bench, also when standing plumb 
on the floor. 

The short cross-lines indicate the length of 



io8 

die straight-edge in proportion to the size of 
the saw. In doing this it should be applied in 
all ways, and while doing so you should stand 
in such a position you can get the best light, 
and be able to detect the slightest variation in 
the saw, watching the light between the straight- 
edge and saw so that where lumps appear mark 
them as indicated by the small crosses, and 
after examining the saw upon its sides, and all 
the lumps marked, place the saw upon anvil 
and strike a light blow with the hammer upon 
every place marked, after you have been over 
both sides, hang it, up again and try it as before, 
until you have it as true and perfect as it well 
can be and need no repetition. The portion 
between the third line and the edge, the truer 
it is the nicer the saw will run. 

A majority of the saw- hammerers wish to know 
the speed that the saw is to be run to give it the 
right strain, I generally hammer saws one way 
and when that is done right, they will do better 
under all circumstances, every saw should be 
hammered as open as it can be and not dish 
either way, as you get near this you can tell by 
the feeling of it. As I have heretofore stated 
that just as soon as you do too much, there 



109 

will be a snapping or jerking movement to it 
when shaken, there will be a snapping as the 
center passes from one side to the other, this 
indicates the saw is too open, and the nearer the 
center it is opened the sharper and quicker it 
will move. 

I have seen many take hold of the center 
and shove it through from one side to the other, 
and it will remain which ever side you leave it. 
No saw is right in that condition. But many 
will say that is the right way to have saws, such 
saws may be too open from the collars to line 
2 and too tight from 2 to 3 and will not make 
good lumber. This is the difficulty with ^ of 
the saws in present use. I have seen a large 
number of saws in this condition, and many 
good ones condemned on this account, which 
might have been made to run all right in 1 5 
minutes' time, if the true condition had been 
known to the Mill- Men, and they had the proper 
tools to do the work. Cut No. i5 represents 
the further examination of saws by figure No. 1, 
Plate 6, showing the defects with saw under the 
test when resting upon each edge, and laying 
horizontal, leaving the center to sag all that it 
will by its own weight, this will give a more 



no 




CUT WO. 15. 

accurate rule to hammer the saw by, and you 
are governed by its own weight and the hard- 
ness of the metal. The straight-edge should be 
applied at right angles with the line upon 
which the saw rests across the center, and 
always using the long straight-edge. Plate 
No. 1 5 also shows how to apply the short 
straight-edge in ascertaining the tight spots, 
and by springing the saw first one way, 
then the other, or up and down. Under these 



1 1 1 

tests will be found four different kinds of 
defects, and should be marked as represented. 
The cross-lines same as shown in loose spots, 
plate No. 12, and the circular dots show the 
hard spots, these will raise up to the straight- 
edge when springing the saw, and will do the 
same on both sides, this should be marked as 
shown. The crosses illustrate a lump that will 
be visible on one side and not on the other, 
and thus requiring the blows upon the full side. 
In testing saws this way it will be best to ap- 
ply the straight-edge across the saw at right 
angles as shown by the short lines ; this will 
detect any buckle that may have been over- 
looked heretofore, and is indicated by the 
oval shaped dots and will appear in the testing 
when the saw rests upon its edge, at the 
end of the line running across the center of the 
saw, when the straight-edge is applied as 
shown, it will appear full and round across the 
line. Change the saw around and allow it to 
rest upon the end of the line that crosses this 
line in the center at right angles to it, then 
apply the straight-edge upon the same line 
where they showed before changing the saw, 
and parallel with it, should the saw appear 



112 

straight to the center out to the edge, this 
shows a buckle and will only appear on one 
side of the saw; and in order to remove it 
without getting into other trouble the long face 
of the hammer should be used, always holding 
and using the hammer in such a way that the 
long way of the face will be across the way 
that the straight-edge is applied as shown by 
these marks. 

Heretofore I have said nothing about the 
long face of the hammer; this part is best in 
removing a twist or buckle, as this expands the 
saw only one way, and that is the narrow way 
of the face, while the round face will expand 
the saw in a circle. When the straight-edge 
shows the saw to be straight one way and 
rounding the other, by applying it at right 
angles the long face should be used the long 
way, always in line with the line that shows 
the saw to be straight. 

It will be best in taking out lumps and 
buckle to use the pad upon the anvil, as is 
done in straightening the saw in all cases. 
I have not said anything about particular 
sized saws or for any particular kinds of work, 
my instructions have been for circular saws and 



H3 
apply to any sized saws, or any thickness 
of plate ; what is good for one saw is equally 
good for another. At the present day as 
a general thing saws are run at such a 
speed that under the foregoing treatment 
will do well, in some cases there may be ex- 
ceptions to the above rule, and in such, one 
must use his own judgment ; of course, all saws 
should not show the same opening under the 
long straight-edge, but always leave the saw as 
open as can be without its snapping as the center 
is shoved through from one side to the other, 
and should always appear straight when hanging 
upon the arbor cool, such saws when warm may 
dish a little, but not enough to hurt anything, 
providing the center is left as tight as can be. 
I call the center ^ the size of the saw, this should 
move from one side to the other with perfect, 
freedom, and when standing upon the floor, by 
leaning the saw either way, it will drop first one 
way then the other, without any snap or jerk 
to it. I have illustrated what will make as 
near a perfect saw as my experience has con- 
vinced me of. There no doubt will be many 
that will say that some things I have advocated 
are quite wrong, but if the instructions here 



ii4 

given are followed out, the majority of the saws 
will be benefited to and i5 per cent. 

I have dwelt mostly on straight-gauge saws, 
but the same rule applies to taper ground saws, 
such saws should be straight on the log side, 
and they will straighten up when in motion so 
that the center of the rim will be in a line with 
the center of the plate at the collars, if the 
saw is open enough to run good. 



CHANGING SAW FROM BIGHT TO 
LEFT AND VICE-VERSA. 



Many times Taper saws are used and ham- 
mered to be run right or left-handed, if the saw 
is right it can be thus used, but should this not 
be the case, the change can be made in a few 
minutes by laying out the saw on the side you 
wish to be the log side, as shown in plate No. 
7, and by giving a blow upon each cross-line 
where i, 2 and 3 crosses upon the log side, 
this will change most any saw, but if the saw is 
hard, then two blows on each cross-line that 
could be determined by the first results. I gen- 



■n5 

erally fit the saw, so that both sides are alike, 
then they can be run on either side and equally 
as well. If the saw is hammered straight on the 
log side when standing, then when in motion it 
will straighten up so that both sides will be the 
same. When the saw is straight on one side 
and crowding on the other, one side is stiffer 
than the other, this would cause some saws to 
run better which would be owing to the sides 
of the teeth, the log side always varies the most 
and some neglect this side and do not keep the 
side of the teeth alike ; one side of the saw is 
sharper angle to the tooth than the other, and 
as a general thing it is the log side that is the 
flattest, this will cause the saw to crowd out of 
the cut ; such saws would run far better if they 
were stiffer on the outside. You can have the 
saw that way if you choose by following above 
instructions. 



n6 



TO LEAD THE SAW WITH THE USE 
OF THE HAMMER. 



Many have the idea, it is necessary to dress 
the saw with a lead one way or the other. 
Whenever a saw will not run straight, it is be- 
cause it is not right. If the foregoing instruc- 
tions are followed I do not think there will be 
any difficulty in making a perfect running saw. 
Many times the saw is all right or nearly so, 
and is inclined to go one way or the other, 
which is generally out of the log. In such 
cases if the points of the teeth are examined 
the log side has the most bearing surface, and 
many times the corner of the teeth are slightly 
round on this side when the other corners will 
be full and sharp ; such may not be detected 
with the eye, but if both sides are dressed at 
the same angle the saw would run straight. 
Many will give the saw lead with a file. It is 
far less trouble to do that with the hammer, 
and when once done in this way will remain 
the same each day if the teeth are fitted 
square. To do this whichever way you wish 
to lead the saw, lay it out as in cut No. 7, and 



n7 : 

<ro around the saw two or three times, once on 

line No. 3 and once about 2 inches nearer the 
center and strike on each cross-line, should 
twice going around not be enough, go around 
again about the same distance outside, this 
will leave the saw slightly dishing that way, 
causing it to incline or run that way. It is 
better to have the saw hammered right, with 
the proper shaped side-cut to the teeth, which 
can be had by using my bench with the side- 
jointer and gauge. 



TO HAMMER SHINGLE SAWS. 



The present way in making shingle saws 
requires some different mode of treatment, as 
they are uniformly made so heavy in the 
cuts that they do not generally get out of 
place there, but sometimes the saw gets sprung 
outside of the collar, they get sprung down 
by a spalt getting caught in the carriage, in 
such a case remove the saw from the collars 
and hang it upon the arbor, try the straight- 
edge upon the straight side to find where it 



1 1 8 

is too full, mark the places and use the ham- 
mer on the straight side until the saw is nearly 
level or true ; shingle saws can be slightly 
dished from the edge of the collar out, this can 
be done in the same way as giving lead to the 
saw with the hammer. 

If the saw is thick and driven less than 
i ioo revolutions per minute, it will not be ne- 
cessary to open the saw much or may be 
slightly from the second to third line, the most 
that can be done is to keep it straight and true, 
and saws that cut both sides as they do in 
double block machines, should be hammered 
dishing nearly y s2 of an inch, some have them 
more than that, but I do not think it best to 
throw the edge up too much, the nearer 
straight this saw is the better it will run. 

The more the edge is thrown up out of line 
with the center of the saw, the more the cen- 
trifugal force will draw it down, as most shingle 
saws run horizontal and the motion to throw it 
down with the gravitation, together with the 
block passing over it, all have a tendency to 
cause the saw to incline down out of the cut. 
The saw being thin on the edge and much 
smaller in diameter, the rim will not expand 



ii9 

enough to effect the running of it. Then the 
saw is furnished with a heavy collar, which pre- 
vents it from buckling. It is very essential to 
keep the saw true and straight, sometimes when 
one side may become lopped down,, it can be 
raised with the hammer without taking off the 
collars, and with less work than to true it up 
with paper, and if the collar has not sprung it 
can be brought to its original place. 



CROSS-CUT SAWS AND THEIR CARE. 



There are but few men that take any care of 
a cut-off saw. In their use for cutting slabs it 
does not matter much with them, but as a 
general thing there are more broken cut-off 
saws in mills than of any other class, owing 
chiefly to carelessnes and want of the right 
care. 

Nearly every one files the front of the teeth 
on a bevel clean to the bottom, such teeth make 
very hard running saws, the reason is the front 
of the teeth forms a wedge which causes the 



120 

saw-dust to be driven each side of the cut, and 
in heavy cuts it will wedge so that they are 
often broken from this cause. 

The best for the tooth is to give it more 
hook than is usual, and dress it square in front 
up to Y% of an inch of the point, this much can 
be beveled and gives the same cutting front, the 
bottom being square will carry the dust straight 
ahead causing the saw to run lighter. Such 
saws with the above treatment, will be less liable 
to become bent and kinked or to run bad, and 
to more fully overcome these things, heretofore 
more set has been given, which causes the saw 
to cut harder. The saw can be hammered the 
same as a Rip saw, the same instructions will 
apply to the cut- off-saws. 

I have heretofore been very plain and ex- 
plicit in regard to circular saws, as they are 
more delicate and sensitive than any other 
class, and requiring more skill in their man- 
agement ; and next in order will be the 



121 

GANG SAW. 



These saws at present are but little under- 
stood, and I have found but few who could 
give me much light upon them. I have asked 
every man that I have come across, who has 
had the care of gang and saw, to give me a 
positive rule to get the best shape of the teeth, 
so as to bring it in contact with the timber in 
such a way that it will cut the best 

I have found as the best way to hano- the 
saw, and one that will apply to any gate ; and 
also that will permit the saw to strike the cut 
in such a way as to cause the gate to strike 
easy without pounding of lifting, as either will 
cause the saw to run bad. There is a point in 
the revolution of the crank where the crank- 
pin should be when the saw takes hold of the 
timber, or if the saw strikes the cut before the 
crank arrives at a certain point it will cause the 
shaft to lift, and the floor timber to spring, jar 
or pound. It is well understood by everyone 
that runs a gang, that there must not be any 
lost motion in any of the movements, but some 
have been troubled in keeping the gang from 



122 



pounding; and many times this is a great 
source of annoyance and break-down, causing 
heavy expense with much unnecessary wear on 
machinery. 



TO HANG GANG SAWS. 



There are a great variety of gangs with 
much difference in the movement of the gates. 

In hanging gang-saws they should be 
hung so the saw will come in contact with 
the timber at a certain point of the stroke. 
It makes no difference what kind of movement 
the gate has, the saw should take hold of the 
timber at the right point to make a smooth 
running gate, some oscillating ones bring the 
saw in contact with the timber in a way that 
makes the gate strike lighter and better. 

Cut No. 1 6 is illustrative of the plainest 
and simplest rule to hang gang saws ; one 
that will apply to any gang, and show the exact 
point where the crank should be when the saw 
comes in contact with the timber. Some os- 



123 




CUT NO. 16. 



124 

dilating gates move the bottom of the saw 
forward first, making an under cut, and then 
throws forward on top and back on the bottom, 
making what is known as the whip-saw move- 
ment, such movement makes the easiest cut- 
ting gate, although many get the movement 
changed and have no rule or guide to go by, 
illustrating how they can get it to rights again, 
and I have seen men to have worked a whole 
season, trying to get the gate right and to have 
failed in the end, this rule applies to any kind of 
a gate, and when understood can be applied 
without much labor and will enable almost any 
one to hang the saw so that it will work the best, 
C represents crank showing the exact point 
where it should be when the saw comes in con- 
tact with the timber. By measuring from line 
P one-sixteenth of the revolution of crank, 
forward of the line as shown in the cut. P is a 
plumb line from the center of crank-shaft. A 
is the line of the cut of saw, when the crank is 
on the lower center. B is the line of the saw 
when the crank is upon the upper center. D is 
a plank the same width as the stroke of the gate, 
this plank should rest on the edge upon the 
feed-rolls, and the press-rolls allowed to rest 



125 

upon it to keep it upright as shown in cut 16. 

Straight slide-gates require some overhang 
to the saw, and some oscillating gates; some 
gates are thrown forward by throwing the bottom 
of the upper slide forward, this throws the saw 
forward until the crank reaches the bottom of 
the stroke, and then as soon as the saw com- 
mences to raise, it throws the saw back clear of 
the cut, such gates the saw does not require so 
much overhang, and some not any, as the slides 
give the saw the same forward movement, yet 
that does not make any difference as to testing 
by this rule the movement of saw. 

This is simply the best and quickest way, 
and the only one I have ever found that will 
successfully work on all kinds of gates, and 
show the exact motion of the saw. In practicing 
by this rule, the first thing necessary will be to 
make up your mind the amount of feed you 
wish to carry, for example, I will take y 2 inch. 
To hang the saws suitable for that in straight - 
slide gates, the saw should have an overhang 
of one-half the feed, and y i6 of the half inch 
would be % 2 or % 2 of an inch in the length of the 
stroke for y 2 inch feed, this is for friction or 
continuous feed, but for hitch or rachet feed, the 



126 

overhang should be Ye more than the whole 
feed. 

For example, for y£ inch feed, the overhang 
should be % that is X / 1S more than the feed in 
the length of the stroke, always go by the 
length of stroke and not by length of saw, you 
can go by twice the length of stroke and twice 
the above overhang, or % 6 more than the whole 
of the feed. In case your gate is an oscillating 
one hang the saw as usual and test the hanging 
by this rule. 

The way to test the hanging of saws is to re- 
move all of them, and then hang one saw in the 
gate with the teeth to the back, giving the saw 
the usual overhang or in accordance with the 
amount of feed you wish to carry, by hanging 
the saw with the back forward, you can mark 
down the edge better than if it were hung right 
side to the cut. 

After the saw is hung, take a plank the 
width of the stroke and dress it smooth so 
that a fine mark would show, and set it as 
shown by D, close to the saw. The press-rolls 
to keep it upright and also to allow the feed- 
rolls to move it the same as the cant is. After 
this is set turn the crank-shaft slowly until the 



127 

crank is on the lower center, mark down the 
edge of the saw shown by line A, then turn 
the shaft until the crank stands as shown by 
C. This should be done accurate, setting the 
crank % 6 of the revolution. 

If the saw is hung right, the edge of the 
saw and the line marked on the plank shown 
by A they will just come together ; but should 
they pass each other, there is not oscillation or 
overhang enough to the saw for the feed, but 
if they do not come together there is too much 
oscillation or overhang to the saw. In the 
latter case more feed can be carried and the 
gate will strike better, and where the feed 
is not enough for the overhang will cause the 
gate to pound on the down stroke, or a chuck- 
ing motion causing the cant to be driven back 
and prevent from feeding' up to the regular 
feed. The saw under such a state of affairs 
is more likely to clog by reason of the saw 
striking the cut after the crank has passed the 
designated point. 

After the crank has passed this point, the 
gate begins to descend with greater rapidity, 
and when the saw strikes the cut on the 



128 

descent, will cause the saw to buckle and spring, 
causing the cant to give back. 

If the saw has not enough overhang or oscil- 
lation the saw will take hold of the cut before it 
begins to descend and while standing ; this 
causes a lifting or pounding motion to the gate. 
Less feed will relieve this difficulty, but to 
carry the desired feed it will be best to over- 
hang the saw or give more oscillation, and un- 
til lines A and B come together as shown by 
dotted line when the crank is at the desired 
point ; this is where the gate begins to descend, 
and at this point, if the saw takes hold of the 
timber it will not take near the power to drive 
the gate as you get the heft of the gate to 
drive the saw through the cut. Whenever the 
saw takes hold before reaching this point, they 
are nearly stationary, and in coming in con- 
tact with the timber will cause them to remain 
standing and will require more power to start 
the gate, and this lifts on the shaft, which un- 
der this treatment there is more strain on the 
machinery, but not so much danger of the saw 
buckling as when there is too much overhang. 
When saws are hung as described at least 2S 
per cent, more feed can be carried as a general 



129 




CUT NO. 17. 

thing. This cut simply shows the outline of 
the rule giving such points as are necessary to 
make it plain to mill-men, and giving a posi- 
tive rule for hanging saws which is applicable 
to any kind of a movement, where the slides 
are set on an incline, the slide can be changed 
until the line A and B come together, and the 
crank is at the specified point. 

These points are very essential for good 



I ^o 



running saws. Many get the saw hung very 
near right but cannot tell how they do it, yet by 
repeatedly trying they do it very well. 

The next thing to be understood is the shape 
of the teeth, how to set and keep them so. 



TO MAKE THE BEST SHAPED TEETH. 



This is a consideration with Gang Saws that 
but very little attention is paid to. The tooth 
should not be too long nor too short, neither 
too heavy or too light, but should have the de- 
sired hook and the right shape back to make 
an easy cutting tooth, and must be of some one 
shape preferable to another. 

It is the same with Gangs as with Circular, 
a gang tooth should come in contact with the 
timber at the same angle or degree. I have 
made inquiries of a great many men how to get 
the right shaped tooth, but the general reply is 
about so and so is the best and cannot give any 
particular rule or way to follow. The following 
cut No. 17 will give a fixed and positive rule 



i3i 
how to make the best shaped tooth, one that 
will give the right angle or hook to the bottom 
regardless the way the saw is hung in the gate. 
This cut shows the tooth full size that are gene- 
rally being run with the saws used. The fol- 
lowing description will enable any one to lay 
out this tooth. First hang the saw with the 
right overhang or oscillation for it to get the 
right hook, drop the gate half way down, this 
is the point where the oscillation is the most, 
place a parallel straight-edge on the Feed Rol- 
lers, shown by line L, allowing the teeth to rest 
on the top, measure from the point of tooth 
back the same distance as is the stroke of the 
gate (for example), say 20 inches from the point 
of tooth, at this place fasten a post or stick at 
right angle with line L, measure one-fourth the 
diameter of the stroke, as 20 is the whole, 5 is 
one-fourth, place another straight-edge at the 
point of the tooth, and the other end 5 inches 
above the line L, make a mark on the tooth 
from the point back the depth of the tooth, 
this gives a quarter hook to diameter of the 
stroke the same as the hook of circular saw, 
the depth of the tooth is best not more 
than one-half the distance apart on a one 



132 

and half-inch tooth, ^ is plenty deep enough 
to carry all the feed usually carried. I can 
carry on a tooth of this description 1/% of an 
inch feed without choking. 

To get the right shape to the back, measure 
from line L at the base of the tooth up to line 
H, then place a straight-edge against the front 
of the teeth shown by line O H, strike a circu- 
lar line from the base of the tooth as shown by 
the dotted line, then measure from the face of 
the teeth back the same distance on the cir- 
cular dotted line as it is from L to H at the 
bottom of tooth, then strike a line from the 
point of tooth as shown by straight-dotted lines, 
this causes the point of tooth to come in contact 
with the timber both sides alike, also gives the 
right shaped tooth on the point, just about the 
same as what is made when the tooth is pointed 
down with the hammer, and prevents the saw 
from drawing into the timber and buckling, the 
tooth should be cut out as shown to make ne- 
cessary room for saw-dust. 

This makes the best shaped gang-tooth that 
I have ever been able to find ; after you have 
these lines on one tooth make a pattern and lay 



133 
out each tooth by it, that will be right for that 
gate. 

With the old way of filing, it is impossible 
for any to maintain them, but if my Saw- Sharp- 
ener is used and set to one tooth it will make 
every tooth like it and keep them just right. 
The tooth does not get shorter or loose ; the 
hook, which alone is of vast importance to the 
saw gangs or others, and where there is a suc- 
cessful way for saws to be what is desired, that 
should unhesitatingly be adopted. 

The cut showing the shape of sides of the 
teeth of circular saws is applicable to gang teeth, 
and should be fitted with the same care, to 
facilitate the dressing of the sides to give the 
desired side-cut as shown in plate 2. 

My Side-Jointer perfects that with more 
eveness than can be done with any other tool 
now in use. 



134 




CUT NO. 18. 

"SIDE-JOINTER." 



The following cut represents this little tool 
which will save daily the price of it in the majo- 
rity of mills. . Plate 1 8 shows this tool applied 
to the saw, showing the shape of the tooth that 
will produce the side- cut which will enable a 
saw to carry more feed and less liable to clog. 



i35 

C. C. represents two three cornered files set at 
the right angle to form the outside corners, 
they are set both alike giving the same angle 
to each side of saw teeth. B B is two guides 
or rests to govern the cut of files, and they act 
as a clamp to hold the files, also take the place 
of a top jointer. A is a latch to prevent the 
sides from opening too far, upon the other end 
is a wire spring that holds the sides of the join- 
ter open to admit of adjusting it upon the saw, 
when using, press the sides together with the 
hand until the files come in contact with the 
saw-teeth, then shove the jointer from one end 
of the saw to the other until the teeth are dressed 
to a uniform gauge, regulated by set-screws 
D D. 

It will be readily understood by every mill- 
man the great advantage to be derived by the 
use of such a tool, both in saving of time of side- 
dressing and gauging the teeth, more particu- 
larly with full swaged tooth, also the advantage 
of having the set uniform and true, as this in- 
creases the quality of the lumber and will enable 
the saws to make more. I speak of the impro- 
ved tools that I have, for assisting Sawyers and 
Filers in the care of saws, any thing that will 



i.3 6 
save time and tend to facilitate in the manufac- 
ture of lumber, should be sought for by all thus 
engaged. 



TO HAMMER GANG-SAWS. 



At the present time but few men understand 
how to hammer the Gang- Saw, and many more 
do not know as they ever require hammering 
more than to straighten them. It is just as 
essential that gang-saws should be hammered 
in order to give them the right strain and to fit 
them to make better lumber. 

1 have been in a great many gang-mills and 
never found but few men that could do this. 

I have never found a set of saws made right 
that has come from any shop, yet this is a new 
feature in the care of them, when a set of saws 
are hammered right they will stand up to 35 per 
cent, more feed on the average. In order to 
do this work one should have the right kind of 
tools which consist of a hammer with a round 
face such as I send with machines. I prefer 
this kind of one rather than have two or more 



137 

as some do ; one wants a good anvil smooth and 
hard faced, oval or full, to enable you to draw 
the saw at the desired place. The next is a 
true straight-edge 8 or 10 inches in length. 
Plate No. 19 show three gang-saws and how 
to lay them out preparatory to hammering them. 




CUT NO. 19. 

It represents the straight-edge applied to the 
saw and as you will find the majority of gang- 



138 
saws, this shows the edge of the saw dropped 
away from it, as it is applied across the saw when 
one end is held in the left-hand and the other rest- 
ing upon a bench, and the center sprung down 
by its own weight. Apply the straight-edge to the 
other side and it will appear the same way. 2 
represents this saw upon the side laid out ready 
for hammering. It is better to lay out the work 
by the right system in order to help new be- 
ginners. 

This saw is very tight in the center and 
open or long on the edges, such saws cannot be 
properly strained, the edges being the longest, 
when the saw is hung in the gate and the key 
drove, the strain is through the center of the 
plate, this leaves the edge loose, such saws will 
dodge and make snaky lumber, and as long as the 
center of the saw is the tightest the edge will 
buckle. Such saws will not carry half the feed 
that one will when just the reverse like 5. 2 has 
five lines of blows through the center. It is best 
at first to go along the center line, then the two 
outside ones, then turn the saw and do the same 
thing, if that does not open it enough, go over 
the other two lines on both sides the same, if 
that does not open enough, go over the saw 



139 
as at first, but not so many blows on them. 
The saw should drop away from the straight- 
edge all that it will by its own weight when 
resting upon both ends, and when held up 
edgewise that it will appear straight as shown 
by C. If the saw is opened too much it will some- 
what assume the form of a letter S, in such case 
the edges should be opened, and this will 
allow the saw to straighten out ; always use the 
hammer on the full side, saws in this condition 
when strained in the gate are tighter on the 
edges, and will keep the saw firm and not allow 
it to dodge. This is quite a job where a whole 
gang of saws are taken, but they can be done 
a few at a time. No. 3 represents a twisted 
saw and also how to apply the straight-edge, 
shown by the lines running across the saw, if 
the straight-edge is applied the other way it 
would appear straight. You will use the long- 
faced hammer shown by the oval dots on one 
end and crosses on the other ; they show where 
the trouble is, and the same rule as is applic- 
able to circular saws. 

In regard to getting out the winde or twist, 
the lines show the way the straight-edge 
is to be applied, and the long way of 



140 

the hammer should cross these at right- 
angles with the marks) the end where the 
crosses are, wants to be turned over and the 
blows applied on the opposite side, invariably 
striking the saw on the full spots or rounding 
side. Always use the long-faced hammer on 
twisted saws, and many times it would be best 
to use a pad on the anvil when straightening, 
if the saw is open enough. As is often the 
case that saws will get bent or twisted by a 
piece of bark or sliver getting wedged in be- 
tween the saws ; many use a wooden block for 
this purpose, in place of an anvil which is very 
good. Fig. 4 shows a saw bent but not twist- 
ed ; by applying the tests as shown, the dots 
represent the full spots ; the blows of the ham- 
mer will take such spots out and 'straighten 
the saw. 

In hammering gang-saws they should 
appear straight, no lumps or open spots on 
them ; use the short straight-edge in straight- 
ening them, and not trust to the eye. Gang- 
saws should be made as limber as they can be 
made, that will admit of straining them 
better in the gate. When the saw is opened 
in the center as I have instructed, and strained 



Hi 
in the gate, both the front and back edges will 
be of like strain ; this will prevent the saw 
from buckling, and such will stand from 2 5 to 
5o per cent, more feed and make better lumber. 

The trouble with most of the gang-saws they 
are gummed with the press-gummer, this ex- 
pands the edge of saw, leaving the center tight, 
and any slight pressure buckles the saw, 
and it cannot carry at the best more than y 2 
inch feed without dodging, but after the saw has 
been opened it will carry from ^ to one inch 
feed as well as it had y 2 inch before. 

It is no trouble to make 16 gauge 
saws stand 5/g to ^ inch feed, provid- 
ing they are opened in the center and 
have the right shaped tooth and side 
dressed to give the right angle to the side. No 
saw should be pressed gummed, it will take 
three times as long to get the saw straightened 
and opened as it should be after gumming, than 
it takes to gum it out. 

If my Saw- Sharpener is used it prevents 
the stretching of the edge of saw and keeps the 
right shaped tooth, after it is once fitted and 
got in shape the machine keeps them so. 

The instructions I have given in regard to 



142 

gang-saws will enable all to improve the run- 
ning of the gang. I have never found a man 
that understood all that I have given in regard 
to gangs, and some use one thing some another, 
but I have made it a point to gather together 
all the best tests experimentally and other- 
wise, and present them in this form so that 
who may desire can have the benefit of them. 



MULAY SAWS. 



They are to be hammered differently and re- 
quire to be as stiff as can be made. In order to 
make a saw stiff it must have an even strain, 
which is done by hammering the plate alike, 
and if the center drops away from ths straight- 
edge when the saw rests on both ends and the 
straight-edge is applied across the saw, the 
edges, must be hammered ; should the edges 
drop away as shown in gang, the center must 
be opened until the straight-edge touches the 
whole width on both sides. By close obser- 
vation when you begin, it will not be long be- 
fore you will get the whole thing. All imper- 



143 
fections in the Mulay can be overcome the 
same as in gang, and same instructions appli- 
cable to them. 



DRAG SAWS. 



They are the same as the Mulay, with same 
instructions applied. 



» i ^ »--»- 



HAND SAWS. 



These saws can be bettered many times by 
hammering the kinks out, and stiffened up the 
same as the Mulay. All saws that are not 
strained should be made as stiff as is possible 
and free from buckles. 



H4 
LARGE BAND SAWS. 



To many these are a new saw and a few 
suggestions as to the care of them may benefit 
some. Owing to the thinness of the plate it 
will require more than ordinary care in enabling 
them to do good work. 

They get kinks and lumps in them rendering 
it necessary to have more set, and those that 
have the care of them should understand the 
use and benefit of the hammer. They are very 
apt to break and when they do are sure to get 
bent more or less, and whenever that occurs, 
the result will be a buckle after they are straight- 
ened if one does not understand taking them 
out. To hammer them the anvil must be upon 
a bench, so that one side can be directly under 
the anvil in order to allow the other side to lay 
flat on its face, the anvil should set by side of 
the building, or where you can have two wheels 
to carry the saw, and these wheels to be so 
arranged that they can be raised and lowered so 
that both sides of the saw can be raised over the 
anvil, this will give an opportunity to work upon 
the inside of the saw, then drop the wheels so 



145 

that the top will rest on the anvil. These wheels 
should be so that the saw can be stretched when 
it hangs upon them, and when the saw is stretched 
the top should hang on a line with the face of 
anvil, as this will admit of working on both sides, 
which is necessary to do a good job. If you do 
not have the saw so you can handle it right, it 
would be best not to undertake as the saw is 
thin and would be apt to get bent or kink in it, 
and whenever the saw gets a buckle orstiffspot 
it may not show to the eye, but in running, the 
stiff-spots are sure to buckle the saw in a short 
time. 

These saws should be hammered the same 
as gang-saw, so that when the straight-edge is 
applied across the saw, it should drop away all 
you can make it to in the center, and still appear 
straight-across when the straight-edge is applied 
and the saw sitting up edgewise. No saw should 
appear any other way than straight when the 
straight-edge h applied perpendicular, but when 
applied horizontal it should drop away all that 
it will alike on both sides. 

These saws are more troublesome to get right, 
they being such length and difficult to handle, 
requiring much time in testing them. 



146 

After you have hammered the saw open 
through the center so that the edges will be 
straight, then place it upon the filing bench 
which should also be supplied with two wheels 
large enough to allow the saw to hang free and 
not bend the plate, these wheels must be so the 
saw can be strained tight, after the saw is 
strained and there is nothing to interfere with 
it, apply the straight-edge perpendicular and at 
an angle of 45 degrees on both sides, this will 
show any twist or lump that will not show when 
tested on the side. 

Go around the saw and mark all the defects 
vou may find, then remove the saw back to an- 
vil, and in straightening the saw on both sides 
test it when in this position, and if you do not 
find any stiff spots, remove it back to the filing 
bench and try it again to see if there are any 
more defects. 

The saw should be handled with care so as 
not to bend the same too sharp, as in so doing 
would render it stiffer in the bends, and as the 
saw is running over the pully this bending and 
straightening will cause it to break in the stiff 
spots. Some try to handle the saw without 
suitable wheels to carry the saw when filing, but 



147 

lay it on pins or rests. In this way it is very 
apt to get twists and kinks in it, and in order 
to find these defects the saw should be strained 
but not so much as when running. It is a very 
suitable place to test the saw when it hangs upon 
the driving pulleys, by slacking the guides so 
that it will hang free, then apply the straight- 
edge both length and acrosswise and each way 
at an angle of 45 degrees, this will detect any 
imperfections that may be in the saw, marking 
at the same time such defects as may appear, 
and use the hammer until they are removed. 

This is the most difficult saw of any in use 
to keep in order, both in hammering and 
filing. 

My machine is the only one that will fit this 
kind of saw. Many use too deep a tooth and 
then carry too much set. In order to make these 
saws run good the teeth should be sprung the 
same as any spring set tooth. 

They should be done so, close to the point ; 
and not carrying any more set than is necessary 
to clear the plate, the truer the plate the less set 
can be carried, as soon as the saw gets bent 
more set will be required to clear the plate. I 
have endeavored to give such points discovered 



1 48 

as will be beneficial in their care, and as the 
band saw is comparatively new, there may yet 
be many discoveries that will be beneficial to 
them. On this subject I have endeavored to be 
as plain and comprehensive as possible as also 
the different ones preceding this, which I trust 
may be of intrinsic value to all interested. 



CONCLUSION. 



I have in the foregoing deemed it advisable 
to detail elaborately upon the most essential 
machines and tools, together with their usage 
and treatment spoken of or refered to in this the 
"Handy Guide," des'gned and compiled for the 
benefit of Mill-Men and Saw- Filers, relative to 
the Hammering of Saws, and what can be ac- 
complished by them when kept in the condition 
I have illustrated they should be, how and by 
what method the best results may be obtained 
when the instructions this book has been de- 
signed to give are carried into effect. 

I would also in this connection state that my 



149 

Saw- Sharpener, which has heretofore been 
brought to notice many times in subjects treated 
upon, and of the general favor bestowed upon it 
by all who have become familiar with the 
advantages derived from it. 

Would also add here that the general lack 
in mills for the right facilities to keep the saw 
in the order it should be kept in for its successful 
work, and too, for something reliable and much 
needed in connection with the saw-sharpener, 
has been fully met by my portable saw bench, 
and will be found to be an indispensable 
machine to mill-men. 

As the hammering of saws has been but 
very little understood in the past, and is of vast 
importance to the successful running of the saw. 
I feel it a duty to prominently mention this as 
one of the greatest acquisitions to the mill. 

I would also speak of the intrinsic w r orth of 
the side-jointer. See plate 18 for side-jointing 
the teeth, which also mention has been made 
under the appropriate head, as index will refer 
to, in detail with other subjects connected with 
the care and usage of the saw, and to be found 
in their several allotted places in this book. 

As my saw- sharpeners (see cuts Nos. 20 



i5o 

and 21), have become pretty well known, and 
given universal satisfaction to all who have had 
them, I feel it due to mill-men and myself, 
that I make quite an extended claim for its 
merits. It is but a very few years since being 
brought into notice, and during the time I have 
made many improvements regardless of time 
and expense, and now claim, as I have heretofore, 
that they are the best machine of the kind in 
this or any other country, and the most perfect 
of any ever introduced into a mill; has been 
and now are acknowledged so by every un- 
prejudiced person who has ever used them, 
and gained a reputation that no other machine 
of the kind has. 

I claim for them a great saving in saws, 
labor and files, and to do perfect work. Its 
use dispenses with gumming and leaves the 
saw round and in perfect balance ; is adapted 
equally to the gang and large band saws as to 
the circular saw, every tooth dressed after a 
form, and therefore, all alike, and can make 
any given shaped tooth, can be square or 
bevel with any desired hook ; lead can be 
given saw from top, bottom or both, as may 
be desired. Saws sharpened by this machine 



i"5i 

can be two or three gauges thinner, requires 
less set and stand more feed than any other 
way of sharpening ; leaves a fine polished edge 
on the tooth, and holds the edge better than 
any other way of dressing ; the surface of the 
steel when dressed with emery wheel is harder 
and more compact (not case-hardened) but the 
edges of teeth wear longer. 

The benefits to be gained cannot be fully 
understood by any one without trying the 
machine. 

It is not my desire to impose upon mill- 
men any machine or tool I have to or may 
offer, unless they are all I claim them to be. 
For the general treatment of saws and such 
other information connected therewith that will 
be of interest I would refer to the subjects 
as they appear in the index, and if anything 
connected with these subjects are not fully 
understood, by corresponding with me I would 
gladly give such information asked for, that 
without doubt would be satisfactory. I am 
familiar with the best machinery in use for 
the care of saws, and fully prepared to fur- 
nish any machines or tools that may be re- 
quired and at the lowest prices. 



l52 

And as a specialty in emery wheels, from 
my own experience, I shall furnish such as 
I can fully vouch for, and at manufacturers' 
prices. • 

Proprietors of lumber mills who are not sup- 
plied with these labor-saving machines and 
tools that mention has been made of in 
this book, will find it to their interest to cor- 
respond with me at their earliest convenience, 
as I claim that the advantages gained by the 
saw-sharpener, independent of any other ma- 
chine or tool I have mentioned will be sufficient 
to pay for it in ninety days ; other things men- 
tioned have their relative and intrinsic worth in 
conjunction with the saw-sharpener. 

I will not expect everyone to order a ma- 
chine or other things 1 have offered, if they 
should, it would be impossible to fill all orders ; 
yet a few wish to excel in their business, and 
from such I expect patronage ; and those who 
may favor me with their orders, I will fully 
satisfy of all I claim. 

I deem it may be well to insert as the 
" finale " to this book, testimonials from some 
of the mill-owners in Muskegon, Michigan, 
where a large number of my machines have 



i5 3 




VCUT NO, SO, 



1 5 4. 




CUT NO. 21, 



i55 

been introduced, and too, before important 
improvements that I have since made to them, 
which fully substantiate all that I claim, and 
this being the expression of all that have used 
them, I will, in connection to the foregoing, 
add an extract of quite a lengthy notice that 
appeared in a periodical published in this city. 

M. COVEL, Patentee and Proprietor, 
259 E. Randolph St., 

Chicago, Ills. 

• — * ^ » ■ 

TESTIMONIALS. 



The following testimonials are from some 
of the mill-owners of Muskegon, where a large 
number of them have been introduced, which 
fully substantiate all that I claim, and as this is 
the expression of all that use them it is not 
necessary to add any more : 

Muskegon, June 29, 1878. 
M. Covet, Chicago, III. 

Dear Sir : — The saw-sharpener which we 
have in use in our mill does its work well, 
and we think makes a saving to us of $6.00 
per day in labor and files. We are now run- 
ning thirteen gauge saws in our gang and carry 



1 56 

three-quarter inch feed, and have two more 
saws in the gate than when we began using 
your machine. Yours truly, 

HACKLEY, McGORDEN & CO. 



Muskegon, April ii, 1878. 
M. Covel, Chicago, III. 

Dear Sir: — The two sharpeners manufac- 
tured by you for us, are the only sharpeners 
that we have ever found. They more than 
take the place of files, keeping our saws in per- 
fect condition. We think no mill-man would 
be without them afer using them. 
Respectfully yours, 

RYERSON, HILLS & CO. 



Muskegon, July 6, 1878. 
M. Covel, Chicago, III. 

Dear Sir: — We cut 180,000 feet of lumber 
per day during the running season, using two 
circulars and a gang. Have had two of M. 
Covel's patent saw sharpeners in use nearly a 
year. Never use a file on our saws and they 
run better and will last twice as long. We 



1 5; 

save the time of two men with this saw-sharp- 
ener, which is the only one we have ever seen. 

Yours truly, 
TORRENT & ARMS LUMBER CO. 



Muskegon, July 5, 1878. 
M. Covel, Chicago, III. 

Dear Sir : — Our saw-sharpeners are doing 
well. Our saws will last a year longer than if 
we used files, and we cut 5ooo feet more lum- 
ber per day and do the work better. We 
would not do without it in our mill, and think 
they make a saving to us in saws, labor and 
files of at least #10.00 per day. Our average 
daily cut is i5o,ooo feet throughout the season. 
Have two circulars and a gang. 

Truly yours, 
HAMILTON, GERRISH & CO. 



Muskegon, July 11, 1878. 
M. Covel, Chicago, III. 

Dear Sir : — Your automatic saw-sharpener 
works well and gives good satisfaction. We 
find a great saving in labor and files. 

Yours, &c, 
., C. DAVIS & CO. 



1 58 

Muskegon, July 17, 1878. 
M. Covel } Chicago, III. 

Dear Sir : — I have one of your saw-sharp- 
eners working on sixteen gauge saws with 
teeth seven-eighths of an inch apart, and I 
think it works splendidly. It has given good 
satisfaction, keeping teeth even length and 
gummed, ready for work at all times. I 
think no mill-man would be without one after 
using it. Yours respectfully, 

T. S. FARR, Agent. 



EXTRACT FROM THE "NORTH WES- 
TERN MANUFACTURER" AS 
FOLLOWS. 



One of the greatest Industries of the North- 
west is the manufacture of lumber. Millions of 
money are invested in the industry, and tens 
of thousands of people are directly engaged in 
carrying it on. 

Improvements therefore in any branch of 
the business of manufacturing lumber — whether 
in machinery or in the mode of operation — 
will be almost of general interest. 



i5o. 

We have seen a machine invented and 
manufactured by M. Covel of this city for 
automatically sharpening saws, in which every 
lumber manufacturer or person interested in 
this industry must be interested. 

Manufacturers of lumber, lath and shingles, 
have long felt the need of just such a machine 
as Mr. Covel has to offer them, which not 
only enables them to improve the quality of 
their products, but at the same time is 
cheaper. 

It is fully understood that the more per- 
fectly a saw is sharpened, the more lumber 
it will cut, and the better it will do it. As 
we understand, formerly an expert was 
employed in each mill, at high wages, to file 
saws, but all progressive, intelligent and 
enterprising lumber manufacturers now-a- 
days avail themselves of the improvements 
that have been made by ingenious mechanics 
and practical men, who have devoted time, 
talent and money to the invention of labor- 
saving machines for this purpose. 

Of course all these inventions have not proved 
successful, but the saw-sharpener has been 
deemed by many of the most extensive lumber 



i6o 

manufacturers in the West as nearly perfect 
for the purpose intended as a machine can be 
made, and to fully accomplish all that is claimed 
for it by the inventor. 

As an evidence of the estimation in which it 
is held, we give this little incident. 

The proprietor of one of the most complete 
lumber mills in the West, after showing us 
over the mill and pointing to the improvements, 
remarked, "and now I must show you my pet 
which I have reserved for the last," when he 
led the way to a neat little room devoted to 
the saw-sharpener, which was industriously 
working away, doing its duty like a thing of 
life and intelligence. 

These machines are now being manufac- 
tured by the inventor and patentee, 

M. COVEL, 
259 E. Randolph St., Chicago, 111. 



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